Z7 Bumper Guard around boat

[Lance Heath]

I own a 2011 Z7...has anyone experienced any problems with the screws backing out from the trim holding the Bumper Pad that runs around the boat to protect the boat from banging into things? I'm continuously having to re-tighten these screws and was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and what their fix was for this. Considering locktite but not sure how well it will work with stainless steel screws and fiberglass. Suggestions????

 

[John W2]

I used 3m 5200 on my 882. Worked great.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Common problem. To really eliminate it you have to do what Mini did. Replace with bigger screws, seal them in and add a few more. All shoebox style hulls will back out the rubrail screws.

 

[Derek Chance]

yep, what Tox said

 

[THOMMO59]

X 2 what TOX said, you must feel pretty important noe TOX?

I used sealant on all the screws, added a few more and and all sorted.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Well I know from first hand experience since 1. I trailered a bunch of miles every year and 2. I had to tighten mine bi-monthly. Pull off a 3ft length of rubrail...re-tighten, replace rubrail....repeat on the next 3 feet. Don't take the rubrail all the way off cause it's a bear to get back on at that point. IMHO trailering is worse than most anything the water can dish out. When I pulled my rig to Wisconsin one year, then loaded it up and met Mac and Kathy in Michigan for another week of festivitites, Mac and I were launching my rig in Clear Lake and when he pushed on the nose to slide it off the trailer, the top half moved up about 3 inches:lol: My rig would actually break the screws if I didn't keep them tight.

 

[Jim B]

I used 5200 on mine too, it was a suggestion from Bob B years ago. I did my 882 and when i got my Z7 it was done before it ever hit the water. In 5 years i have not had to touch a single screw since the 5200 was done on day 1.

 

[Mini]

only way to stop it is to use marine tex to set them in. I DO NOT reccomend that.



I still tighten mine and replace broken ones with oversized.....as a matter of fact I did a 4 foot section on my Ranger Tuesday. Still have the remaining boat to go over but I am waiting until the weather warms up a little (if it does...lol) because the rub rail is more pliable and easier to work with.



There are spots on my boat that the screws are 2" apart....



I tried the 5200 thing....its a delay at best. And trailering is NOT the issue. Its the flex difference between the hull and cap while in the water....

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Dude, I agree it's the flex but that flex is the same if not more + vibration while on the trailer. I stress cracked my hull from trailering.:wacko:

 

[THOMMO59]

It's propbably both trailering and in the water but I'm with TOX on the trailering thing and mainly because my standard Nitro trailer really is crap, it flexes all over, has springs from hell that make the boat want to bounce and the original bunks are too thin.



Combine this with our wonderful roads and the poor old hull cops a hiding.



I also agree that it's just part of owning a shoe box hull that tightening and sealing is part of the territory.



I would love to see someone make a trailer with load adjusting bunks, that allow the hull to move up and down with the bumps and load etc and actually have a low non sprung trailer that hugs the road.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

I'm not as ambitious as you. I just want a bunk covering that won't prmote hull blisters. And won't shoot your boat off th bunks 10ft before you get to the water.