2011 Mercury Optimax 150

[Eric Fleming]

I've got a new 150 Optimax. I've did the break in as close as I can to Mercury specs. I can't get the motor over 4250 RPM's. I'm running this on a 2011 Tracker V18 WT and the prop is 14 1/2 x 19p that Tracker rigged the boat with. I keep getting info from fellow boaters that I've got the wrong prop. I think it's something else as I've talked to other people with the same boat and motor and that's what they are running. I only got 4400 with just me on boat in calm water. I was running at about 2000 rpm and noticied a surging feeling and I could swear it sounded like it was running rough. It also has a strong odor of exhaust. I'm not sure how it should smell as I've ran 4 strokes but it seems awful strong. It also dies easily when trying to put it on trailer and I'm shifting back and forth in f/r to manuever. Any thoughts?:unsure:

 

[joseph currier]

are you triming the motor out as you accelerate?

sounds like your trying to get top rpm with the motor trimed in to much? if your sure your triming it properly then

start with the simple stuff, compression , fuel, spark. (check that there are no fuel line kinks)

after you have done all you can do wich should be very littel unless you are a merc certified tech and have a mercury tough book that hooks up to the computer take it to the shop you bought it at and get them to get it running correctly. they should put it on a dyno or take it to the water to



on a new purchase like this they should be jumping thru hoops for you.

if they want your repeate buisness down the road.

the strong 2 stroke smell is expected during breakin period as your engine is very smart and knows it needs to use more oil at this time it will adjust with more hours of use.

it's all preprogramed in it's computer.

 

[Eric Fleming]

I am trimming it up, as a matter of fact I've got to get the trim guage adjusted as the prop blows out just after the first line on trim guage. I was just trying to get a line on the problem before taking it in to dealer. I'm not going to wrench on it at all, that motor is way to complicated for me. I've wrenched on older Johnson's and OMC's but this is way above me and my tools. I had a problem with my previous 2008 Mercury 60 hp 4 stroke and took it to dealer a couple times before I did my homework. I found on the internet that it could be the hose on bottom of motor causing my overheat alarm. Took it back and sure enough that's what it was. Dealer fixed it up for me under warranty and I didn't have any more problems with it. I know a guy that works on boat motors and he is saying my 150 could have fouled plugs or a coil issue. I am going to take it in to dealer I was just trying to get as much info as possible. I also think that the smell is not from break in as the oil usage has dropped from when I first got it. It was using more oil at first and has since adjusted itself. Thank you for your input, it's much appreciated.

 

[THOMMO59]

You either have basic or serious issues, it could be that your cables are not getting full throttle or the potentiometer (adjuster) on the back of the tacho is not in the right position and if fact you are getting much more revs, or something is horribly wrong with your motor which I doubt. When the prop cavitates do the revs come up substantially?

 

[Eric Fleming]

I think the rpms come up about 500 when it blows out. Any idea what the setting should be? Would the tach setting affect the way it ran? I'm really think it is not running right, it really feels like it is surging and missing at lower rpm cruising. I can also say that it is in no way going as fast as it should. According to the speedo it has hit a best of 35 when it should be crowding 50. I know that the speedo is not going to be accurate but it is not going anywhere near its potential.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Is the motor mounted 1.5" above the transom?

 

[Eric Fleming]

I'm a little confused as to where to measure it. I know I measure from cavitation plate but this boat's transom is different than any I've dealt with before. The bottom "V" keel does not go all the way back. It stops 8-10 inches from rear of boat. The rest of the transom is normal as on any other boat. It creates a sort of setback transom. I don't know if I measure from the keel "V" or from the higher setback on the transom.:unsure:

The motor does seem high and is mounted in the first hole, I remember hearing somewhere that it's supposed to be in the 3rd hole.:wacko:

 

[Bob Bourget2]

One and a half inches would be the third hole......that is factory spec. Too low and performance suffers. Have your Dealer check spec again......

Measurement is from the top of the transom to the bottom of the clamp bracket. The part that hooks over the top...

 

[Eric Fleming]

Looks like it's going to the dealer, 1 1/2 inches to deep doesn't seem like it would cut 1500 rpm's. I'm going to have them check out motor also. I still don't think it's running right. Any idea how long it takes to rebed the motor? I'm wondering how long it takes to cure. Thank you for all the help everyone. I'm trying not to be a whiner as I really do like the boat.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

A 1.5" motor height change can significantly change the performance. Whether or not it is your ENTIRE issue is still to be found out.

To remove, clean old sealer, re-bed and install, less than one hour.

I would also recommend a diagnostic with the cds and have them do a "cylinder misfire". We can electrically cut out EACH cylinder to see if it is operating or not. That simple test can tell a savvy Tech volumes.

Also, have them double check tach calibration.

 

[Dennis D]

I have a 2011 Opti-Max and I have do not have a problem getting to 5000 rpms and 45MPH, it is the factory setting.

 

[Eric Fleming]

Well I think I found the problem, #4 sparkplug is just as clean as brand new. All other plugs showed signs of fire but #4 is spotless. No carbon, soot, or discoloration at all. I'm thinking #4 coil is bad. That and the motor height. I think I'll run it by the dealership and see if they will check that coil for me real quick so I don't lose the boat during fishing season. I'll then take boat in for service this fall and have motor put in the third hole then.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

The CDS will show if the CDM is faulty. While they are doing that, have them re-adjust the motor.

 

[Galassi Enrico]

you said you have a tv18. i also have a 2001 tv18 with a 150 carb. I put on the 150 myself and tracker told me to mount the motor in the second hole. Im running a 25p trophy plus but i also ran a 23tempest. Im turning about 5700rpms. The tack also needed to be adjusted for the bigger hp. The boat originally came with a 90hp. I hope you figure it out.

 

[Eric Fleming]

Took it in to Dealer yesterday. They got it in and worked on it and found the number 4 infector was unplugged. They also adjusted the trim guage. They wanted to wait on raising motor until they lake tested repairs first. Tested boat and only got 5000 rpm after repair. They are going to raise it to #3 hole and test today. They said they were reluctant about raising it as they had been lowering motors on Targas due to cavitation during turns. I don't do water sports so they are going factory specs for me.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Glad it was nailed down. Once again....the CDS is an invaluable tool, and can identify 90% of the problems straight away. The "cylinder misfire" test would have picked that issue up immediately, as indicated by a non-working cylinder. Ventilation in the turns can be mostly eliminated with a good Stainless prop, and you'll get the best of both worlds....

 

[Eric Fleming]

Dealer moved motor and water tested boat today. Motor only ran 5100 and was ventilating badly. They suggested going to a 17p prop and moving down 1 hole, boat is currently running a 19p prop.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

I would recommened checking tach accuracy. The CDS can "go for a ride" while hooked up to monitor various engine inputs. Once the tach accuracy is verified, move on to prop choice. If ventilation is still a problem, a S/S prop may solve it, along with some added benefit. See if your Dealer can arrange a "demo" with a VENGENCE 19".....

 

[Dennis D]

The dealer had to move my 150 Opti up to the next notch and I went from 5100 rpms to 5600 rpms and the motor stopped cavitating on turns at speed.

 

[Eric Fleming]

Motor is now in second hole and is running a 17p prop. Dealer lake tested and said they got 5600 and 45 mph. I didn't get a chance to test yet, but I will update when I do. They also fixed trim guage and they did it for free.

 

[Eric Fleming]

Tested boat and got 5500 and 43 mph fully loaded. Is it normal for this motor to have steam coming out of the large opening on back of motor below tell tale hole? I ran boat all day and each time I would anchor to fish there was what appeared to be steam coming out. No alarms and motor seemed to run fine.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Yes, it is "normal" to see steam at times from the exhaust port...make sure water pressure is in check, 15 psi minimum at WOT for that engine...

 

[Eric Fleming]

Bob, I found a stump and banged up my aluminium prop. Woould you recommend a Vengeance SS 17p for my boat #48-16314A46? I was running about 5500 at 43mph with a aluminium 17p.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Yes...same pitch.

 

[Eric Fleming]

I have been looking around and found one for $389 plus $18 for shipping. I also found Quick Silver for $289. The site with the Quick Silver says there is no difference except the Quick Silver doesn't have Vengeance stamped on it. Any thoughts?

 

[Eric Fleming]

Got my SS prop on and tested boat Monday. I got a Vengeance 17p for $389 plus shipping. I decided to go with the Vengeance over the Quicksilver, whats a $100 when you are talking about boats. Boat ran about 44 mph @5400 rpm's. Hole shot is better and low speed manuever is alot better esp backing up. Prop also doesn't blowout and I can trim up alot more now. Now I'm thinking I might have to raise motor as I'm trimming up alot more than with the aluminum prop. Really like the way the boat performs now, just need to squeeze out those last few mph's and it'll be tits!!!

 

[Eric Fleming]

Is my motor supposed to have a torque tab? Its got the round disc with a bolt hole in the center right now. Could the tab have came off? Maybe that's what dinged my prop and it wasn't a stump like I thought.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

No it doesn't have a "trim tab"...."anodic plate" is correct.