2005 NITRO 882 DC (VERY POOR HOLESHOT)

  • Thread starter Mr Bass [IMG]http://www.zjstech.net/~library/12729
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Mr Bass

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Big problem, took the boat out today for the first time. Hole shot, there is no such thing. Takes forever to get on the plane, 12 seconds plus.



The setup is as follows :



2005 Nitro 882 DC

2004 Mercury 200 EFi Saltwater

10
Image(137).jpg
 
I would start with the prop. The laser 2 isnt a very good prop for a heavy hull like the 882. I would try a 23 tempest plus and id bet it will get better.



When it comes to motor height lower isnt always better. You can actually have it too low on holeshot and the extra leverage will make the bow come up and the holeshot suffers. On my 882 i have raised the motor as high as it can go on the stock plate and the holeshot is much better then it was with the motor at the stock 3" below the pad. When the motor was lower then 3" the holeshot was very poor. With the motor all the way up my 882 planes fully in under 6 sec with a full load and two guys, a little slower with full wells. by myself its on plane almost instantly. I have a 150 xr6 and run 23" tempest plus that has been blueprinted and no hydrofoil.
 
What is your rpms when your going WOT at 64?



U will want it to be as close to 5800 as you can get it. 5500-5800 should be your goal.



Pull some PVS plugs is the laser has em.



Get a trophy or tempest if the laser just won't do it.
 
All the pluggs on the prop are removed.

Hydraulic jackplate.



This is all the pictures from the current setup I have
 
Look in my member library for more pictures unable to upload them at this stage



It is detailed pictures op the setup
Image(140).jpg
 
Detailed pictures op the jackplate setup



This is how high the engine must be trimmed up to get holeshot.
Image(143).jpg
 
My guess would be the size of the jack plate is too big for that boat, you may want to exchange it for a 6".
 
All the plugs are removed.



Takes between 9 and 10 seconds to break over.



Its cavitating, revs are there but the prop is just spinning, the nose will not get down it stays in the air. The moment the nose gets down it goes like hell. No rooster tail to speak of, max rpms 5800 easily when its on the plane. Water pressure alarm goes off when you trim it up to high but not when you just raise the jack plate. Wheel torque hang on for your life you must basicly fight the steering.
 
With it being a new rig, the dealer should swap props for you. If you have to jack the plate up like that, I'm wondering if it's not a 25" shaft, which many (or most) saltwater engines are. What's the model number of the motor?
 
US O BUJ04103E405 number on engine, hope it helps
 
Here is my "typical" setup on an 882, quick holeshot, handles like a cupcake, carries a load really well.




DCP_0533.JPG
 
When you trim the motor and jackplate down how low does the motor sits, can you trim it down when trailered?



I spoke to the shop will get a 4 blade 24 pitch prop to go and test it on thursday.



Want to know if I must raise the engine mountings so its in the lowest hole so that the engine is mounted at its max.
 
Did we determine if this motor is an XL shaft? If you have to trim the plate all the way up to get any results, I'd look at shaft length. It should be a 200L, not XL. What's the serial # on your motor?



Craig
 
It is a 2005 200L EFi serial number OT986195 model number 1-200413DY



Just got home trimed the engine down and lowered the jackplate centre of prop nearly 12" below the bottom of the hull.



What or where is the pad the motor should only be 3 1/2" below. (don't understand so so well)
 
I think we have our first real clue...



<i>Just got home trimed the engine down and lowered the jackplate centre of prop nearly 12" below the bottom of the hull.</i>



This would explain having to lift the motor up so high to start out.



What doesnt make sense to me... (not that much does) Is wouldnt the dealer know better? In what ways would this setup ever be considered correct?



When I had my 901, a 1 inch difference was HUGE on performance.



Now, waiting for Pat....
 
AS a starting point, your prop shaft should be 3"-3.5" below the running surface of the boat. Pad is the part of the boat that is actually in the water when the boat is "on plane". As Simmy said, "I think we have our first clue". While I'm no set-up guru like Pat, I'd say your motor, if truely 12" below pad, is mounted WAY too low.



Craig
 
So when everything is trimmed down the CENTRE of the prop should be 3"-3.5" below the lowest part of the hull.



As it is now 12" below with everything trimmed down and when the jackplate is trimmed all the way up it's 5.5"-6" below, reason for no holeshot. So basicly I must raise the engine nearly 8"-9" higher, but the holes are allready there, how do they lift the engine without drilling more holes?



How much lift do you get by mounting the engine in the lowest hole is currently in the middle one, only 2 more to go.
 
Craig thanks for making the term pad clear to me just went to remeasure everything, first time use the build in setback of the hull to measure from now the the real measurements taken a minute ago.



With the trim down and the jackplate down CENTRE of prop is 7.5" below the pad.



With the trim down and the jackplate raised to its max 6" the CENTRE of the prop is 1.5" below the pad.



Looking at the posts, it would seem that this can be a problem.



Yesterday when running at WOT got 5800RPM but with the jackplate all the way up and with a bit of trim the pressure alarm sounded, and NO rooster tail.



When running WOT should the jackplate be up, down or in the middle?
 
Dear Nitro Dealer:



WTF?



Sincerely,

Mr. Bass



In other words, I'd take it back to the dealer and tell them to call you when it has a holeshot.
 
See, I import the boat myself, no Nitro dealer in Namibia only the owner of Mercury in Namibia willing to help, bought the engine from him. No other Nitro's in Namibia mine is the only one in the country.



Nitro only supplied the boat, trailer and trolling motor. I still had to assemble everything when it got here.



Previous boat 16' with 115 Yamaha and 19P no problem got 48mph at 5800rpm
 
Hopefully Pat G. or Bob Bourgett will check-in this post. They are far more qualified than I am in set-up issues.



Craig
 
First, that lazer prop is just junk, sorry to be so blunt, but a tempest/trophy/powertech/hoss will all run circles around that lazer.



I'm still not convinced you don't have an XL shaft. Read the sticker on the model should say "200LEFISW" if it says something different, let me know.



Let's check one thing at a time before we go swallowing the whole pill bottle.
 
Pat, his motor serial# is 0T986195. I checked MercNet. It shows as a 200L EFI SW. ???



Craig
 
My name is Jandre Engelbrecht 30 years old and I live in Windhoek, Namibia. Started bass fishing 2 years ago, best thing to ever happen to me. Imported a Nitro and since you guys can only put 175's on I decided to try the 200 route.



Pat I think the way you're going is right, I think the prop is just cavitating, venting it to much. Will put it in the water with the 24" Trophy and then start venting it one plug at a time. Pat do you think I should raise the motor 2" by mounting it in the bottom hole, then I only have to lift the jackplate 1"-2". On the Trophy, must I take out 2 opposite plugs?



Thanks guys, now I know why I bought a Nitro, don't need a dealer in Namibia with guys like you.



Pat you say you would really like to rig a 882/200 come visit us in Namibia and take it for a test run. September in the spawn we get lots of bass 5lb-7lb and there's a rumour bout a few 10lbers in the lake.
 
Thanks Pat, no gauge on the jackplate will mark the spot when it feels right.



Thanks guys, will let you know on Thursday if everything went better than Sunday.
 
I'm sure you have too many plugs out of your prop. Also a 23 or 24 tempest would be a better prop. Set the cavation plate no more than 5" above the very bottom of the pad. 2 plugs out of the prop. I'm thinking 23 for sure for 4700 ft. You might even want to put some 2 degree wedges between the engine and Jackplate. That should work. I might add that the regular jackplate that comes with the boat does have wedges built in to it.
 

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