motor problem update

[David Massey]

Ok so I previoulsy posted about my reed being broken in my motor. There actually turned out to be more than one. No big deal since I am getting it fixed for free basically.(its all who you know. just kidding)Anyway, somebody there tried to tell me that this probably happened because I was over revving my engine and asked if I was running at full throttle. I said yes I had been because I was in a tourney and wanted to get to my spot before anyone else. He said I should back off about 15 to 20% and that would help to prevent this from happening again. I have had the boat for 2 years and always ran it the same way during tournaments.



Any truth to what I am being told? Could it have anything to do with needing a different size of prop?



Please help......again.



Thanks

 

[Bryan McDonough]

What engine? These engines are designed to run within specs. If your are running your engine outside of the specs than your playing with fire, but that's my opinion.

 

[Mark Jaworski]

Hi Davidikus,



I run my boat WTFO most of the time. As long as my RPM's are within limits I dont worry as BMCD stated. If the RPMs are within specs and the motor is under warranty it should be covered. They can tell how many RPM's youve been running with the computer. You should ask them what the MAX RPM you hit was. If its within the manufacturer guideline ask him what the hell hes talking about. The motors are designed to run. My dealer told me to run it, its actually easier on the motor.



Mark

 

[Dan J.]

If we're still talking about you '99 150EFI, you should still be able to read the ECU with the DDT and see your RPM's history, if there's any question. (i.e.: Prop too small=RPM's too high.)



Make sure all of the reed edges are checked and cylinders scoped for debris. I don't know of an outboard with 10 yrs. on it that drops a single reed. They're much like tires, all going over the same road, give or take. Your OEM stock reeds are good, but not the greatest nor designed for the average life of your block. Cold starts with high RPM's (Run&Gun) are very hard on reeds and probably the largest contributor to their early demise. Since you're replacing more than one reed (which ONE is almost never done nor recomended unless on much newer block. i.e.: defect) I suggest you invest in a better quality Boyesen set of reeds. (B-26413 Boyesen Power Reed Valves) For $150-200 you can get these retail, your dealer buddy should be able to get these for just over $100-$125, plus install. You will notice an overall difference in improvement and immediate satisfaction behind the wheel/throttle. Remember, 5850 is the max you'd want to turn your wheel with a water pressure of 12-15 PSI feeding it at minimum. Good luck.

 

[David Massey]

Dan,



Thanks for the info. I am having them replace all of them especially since I have more than one that is broken now. I am supposed to get it back this afternoon and I will take it out on the mighty Columbia River and check it out before my next club tourney this weekend.



Thank you to all of you who offered some suggestions. I really appreciate the input.



Dave

 

[Eric Aasen]

I just had my reeds replaced due to "abusive overspeed revs" as well. I know I never get close to the rev limiter when running so it must be on start-up. When I start up the motor usually revs up pretty high right when the key is turned. Overspeed in nuetral is different than when running as 3000 rpms would be very high in nuetral but is barely chugging along while in gear. My point is the computer might not show high over revs but you could still have overrevs if they occured in nuetral. An Opti will show that code but not sure about an older EFI. I also highly recommend the new style Boyeson reeds. My tech said that is what saved my engine. When carbon fiber reeds break they are basically ground to dust in the cylinder, when metal ones break they score the cylinder walls.



NoCAL