Getting on plane

[Richard dibuo]

I HAVE A 800 LXS WITH A 115 MERC THAT HAS A HARD TIME GETTING ON PLANE.wILL A STABILIZER SE 300 SPORT HELP?

 

[fatrap]

probably will help. Look at how your loaded also. Nitros have a tendency to be butt heavy like most women and most bassboats. 115 is a little underhorsepowered so full tanks batteries two guys and gear is pushing a 115 for a holeshot. The dolphfin helps with this so does a prop with more lift. Might have to get yer pard to sit on the front deck till she pops up as your sitting now. Just my thoughts.

fatrap

 

[Richard dibuo]

Thank you fatrap.Just trying to get this all sorted out by spring.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

What kind of prop are you running?

 

[Richard dibuo]

laser II 24

 

[Dan J.]

Before drilling holes in a perfectly good gearcase to apply a band-aid (foil), I'd suggest switching to a 24P Trophy PVS four blade prop with two plugs completely removed and two medium plugs left in. It should spin up a lot faster to increase your holeshot and noticeably improve your handling with that combo. Good luck!

 

[Richard dibuo]

thanks Dan

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Agreed, experiment with the props PVS.......let us know how it works out....

 

[Richard dibuo]

ok thank you for the info

 

[THOMMO59]

I used an SE300 on a 2011 Z6 and the results are fantastic!

Buy one, you won't be dissapointed regardless of what prop you choose. You don't have to drill the cav plate if you dont want to, but it won't hurt it anyway.

You will get, less bow lift, faster holeshot, less dropping in the ass on backing off, better handling and able to trim out further, slower plane speeds. No loss of speed.

I have used 3 different brands of cav plates on different combos over the years and nothing comes close to these.

It's not a bandaid, it's a bolt on improvement. Jack plates aren't bandaids, they too are bolt on improvements in the right application.

 

[Richard dibuo]

Thank you

 

[Dan J.]

I strongly urge the OP to use the search function at the top of the page with this topic and soak in the volumes of info on foils (hydrofoils, whale tail, planing plates, etc.) discussed here over the last decade or so before deciding on relieving a symptom over curing the disease in regards to this issue. Good luck!

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

I have stated it many times that yes, a planing devise has it's place but it is not for holeshot and overall performance. 99% of the time, the problems can be cured with the proper setup. It is just easier to apply a fin and get around it. Personally, I would rather have my boat set up correctly. Now if you "need" a fin then fine, there are situations where it is warranted.....underpowered boat.....shallow water takeoffs.....slow speed planing...etc. Listen to Dan...undeniable experience in all things boats!!



TOXIC

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Just a few comments on the term "band-aid", as it relates to "afterplanes".

While it is VERY true that proper boat set-up is paramount, and can eliminate possible planing problems, it is at times a DESIRE to have something better than what proper boat set-up can give you. Some bass boats are naturally very stern heavy and CAN and DO benefit from these afterplanes. My own drag boat had one. Did IT come out-of-the-hole without it? Sure it did...about 2 seconds to 30mph. But it was "better" with one. To some, they can't be bothered and will go the easier way out, and I say....all the power to them if it satisfies the need.

Let me give you another example....take a typical bass boat that has a hard time to plane but the owner wants to have the fastest set-up possible. We know that weight distribution should be biased towards the stern, so the boat will achieve lift and speed, without tons of trim. Sure, he can change the prop to one with more hole-shot capability, but at the expense of top-end. We have a Stroker here that will do over 100mph....it has an afterplane. We COULD re-prop, we COULD re-distribute weight. If we did, it would run slower. Sure, this is an extreme example, but more common than you might think. "Band-Aid", I think not.....

 

[Dan J.]

While I agree that foils do have a place on some hulls (my Skiff has a foil), I believe we're getting lost amongst the "apples and oranges" here. The OP was asking about his 800LX hull w/115 2-stroke. Although a bit underpowered for ideal performance, properly set up that hull really doesn't need aftermarket outboard gearcase mods to get up and out of the hole. I'm fairly certain that anyone who has power-plunged or cartwheeled due to a bass boat foil grab will agree that there is a good level of unexpected danger being added with foil installation, putting aside the additional stress added to a pot metal gearcase. Additionally, the Trophy on that hull does not diminish top end with that 115 in the least. The performance of that prop should be as true as this quote regarding a foil:

You will get, less bow lift, faster holeshot, less dropping in the ass on backing off, better handling and able to trim out further, slower plane speeds. No loss of speed.

For that hull/engine combo the 24P Trophy PVS is a great prop choice up to about 70 MPH, which that combo will only see on the interstate. Much more info can be found through the search feature, but I would not advise a foil on this hull when better and safer performance enhancements can be made by putting the proper wheel on the shaft. (Taking for granted the engine and hull are non-problematic.) It's just my opinion based on my experiences and worth every bit of the paper it's written on. Good luck!

 

[Bob Bourget2]

"Although a bit underpowered for ideal performance, properly set up that hull really doesn't need aftermarket outboard gearcase mods to get up and out of the hole."



No question....BUT, it can / should do better with one. This is my point. Not that it is needed, but may be desirable if he is in the quest for more. Like you, my Grizzly has one as well. Honestly, I have not yet found a bass boat application where it did not help somewhat.

 

[Dan J.]

Personally, I would rather not have a foil used as a remedy for an underpowered situation. An underpowered rig can/will drop pad more often and many drivers are caught off guard when that foil grabs with the high helm torque ensuing. I've been passenger on a power-plunge and a few years later right behind a cartwheel due to their foils grabbing. (There has to be a degree of operator error added in addition to the inherent danger. ) I've ran similarly under powered boats with them and fully agree to the functionality, but not to the extent of exceeding proper wheel pitch and a balanced ballast hull. I'm probably just old fashioned about that. :lol: Like fine tuning most things, I just believe the correct design part (prop in this case) is the first/best place to start before aftermarket add-ons.



That, and the 115's on 170/180/700/800 series hulls did extremely well with the 24P Trophy, both before and after the PVS porting came along.

 

[ray emons]

I have a 98 800lxs with a 115 2 stroke merc.

it came with a sport se300 tail on it.



it has a 24 v trolling motor, 3 batteries,and it gets out of the hole fine.

I run a 22p laser 2 with 2 medium hole plugs and 1 empty.

I also run a 21p trophy plus with 4 medium plugs.



both setups run up to 5420rpm at wide open throttle.

I suspect you are over propped and should try a lower pitch prop.



I also found that the motor was mounted too low from the factory

(middle hole)i raised it one hole and it made a big difference.



since last year I installed a 8" jackplate with the motor 3" below the pad.

this has made a world of difference in handling and holeshot.



I removed the whale tail and as it no longer needs it.



good luck with your boat.

 

[Richard dibuo]

tHANK YOU ALL FOR THE INFO.i GUESS i WILL JUST HAVE TO WORK ON IT.I think i know where to start.Thanks again

 

[fatrap]

Just curious but ball park figure what it all cost $$



fatrap

 

[Richard dibuo]

I will let you know the $$$$