2000 merc 150- XR6 long loud beeeeep.....????

[john grimm]

took boat out today,after cleaning fuel system, ran great bob, thanks,,,at the end of a run it started a loooong loud high pitch beep, came from under dash,,,,dont know what it is from, all gauges looked fine,, i stopped boat, turned off key, turned it back on it continued....after a couple min. in the off position, it finally quit and didnt come back on......any ideas, thanks for the help.also what psi should my water pressure be,,

 

[Bob G.]

15 psi at WOT (5600 RPMs)

 

[john grimm]

getting like 8-10 had a new water impeller put on last yr, and hardly used it,..... gauge getting old??...what about the beeep... what makes it go off

 

[Bill Kyte]

If I am not mistaken that is either oil/overheat. I know that motor the magnetic oil sensor goes bad. $11 part. I am not a mechanic for sure, but could also be a stuck thermostat.



Bill

 

[Ken Sabin]

John,

I too have an XR-6. The themostats are a quick and easy change. There are two of them. One on each top corner of the motor as you look at it.

 

[john grimm]

thanks guys, will try that, i put a new oil sensor on not long ago,also, just a little worried, i had the water pump changed by a shop and the guy said a (seal) came out on top of shaft i think...but it wasnt a big deal,,,i took his word for it...think i got screwed?ill change the therms and see if it does it again..

 

[Bob Bourget2]

8-10 psi is low, if you are above 4500 rpm. It should be a MINIMUM of 15 psi. I would start from scratch. Replace pump, replace therms, and remove and clean poppet valve. If it is a continous loud, solid beep, it signifies overheat. Seems to be consistent with your low pressures.....start here.

 

[john grimm]

can i change the pump myself, can u walk me through the basics,what all i need where is poppet valve,. and once its apart if there is anything else i should change....thanks serial # 0T065673, like i said had a shop do it last yr and think he messed it up,...

 

[john grimm]

bob i do have a question, whats the diff. in a 150 and 175 heard it was just carbs...

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Sure I can walk you through it if need be.

As far as the "150 to 175", it depends on year. There were a few years, the XR6's were "detuned" 175's...all they did was put on smaller carbs, and a frighteningly long "tuner"..or should I say "de-tuner". Other years they changed the port timing {smaller / lower} and put the "big / 175-200" carbs on. Strange. I'd have to have a look see at your exhaust port to tell you which one you have, and how easily it can be "modded".

 

[john grimm]

what are the first steps to start the water pump, if it can be converted to a 175, is the gain worth the expense,( how much we talkin)

 

[Bob Bourget2]

First steps are as follows:

-1] Clean, dry work area, well-lit. READ SERVICE MANUAL.

-2] Put shifter in forward gear.

-3] Tilt motor up to allow enough room for g'case to be removed.

-4] Disconnect battery positive lead.

-5] Remove all mounting hardware, including the bolt under the anode, disconnect speedo hose. CAUTION, lower will "fall" if you remove them properly.

-6] Replace pump parts. I use perfect seal on gaskets, dish washing detergent inside housing for impeller lube.

-7] Re-install lower. Since it was removed in-gear, a slight twist of the prop shaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE will allow it to slide right up after you're sure the pump water tube is aligned.

-8] Bolt it back up. Test shift before starting it.

-9] Re-install positive lead.

-10] Hook-up hose and flush attachment, run and test. Check shift, pump operation.

That's a very "basic" impeller change....but...it will get you started.

Leave your motor alone, be sure it's tuned properly, and the boat is set-up to it's very best. I always told my Pro-Staff that if I were running an IDENTICAL rig to theirs, mine would out-run it by a few MPH....."just because". When you consider there is only maybe 2-3 mph difference between a 150 and 175, you get the picture.....:blink:

 

[john grimm]

what was the (boat place) talking about when he said a seal came out and he couldnt get it back in but it wouldnt hurt anything,.....what seal is it and is that true...was just wondering about the carbs,, 2-3 mph makes a difference in a tourny when u drive the lake lol but i think ill leave it alone, it runs great,.....thanks bob,

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Seal????? The only "seal" would be in the water pump base, which is an easy change. It might make sense to call the {shop} and ask them which one gave them grief?

 

[john grimm]

does it seem odd that i need to change it after a season,with little use the original lasted a loong time, i now know i should have changed it anyway, is the ones u get now not as good as the (original) ....cant find my service manual,...sounds like if i follow your inst.i should be good,, thanks bob for your help, this forum has been great and will pass it on...bob do u benefit from orders placed here,(if so i will do that)..,on my last problem i just cleaned it out ,put new fuel lines on, ( i got from auto parts(was that bad idea)..and cleaned out bulb,.,, fixed that problem,........honestly i dont ever remember getting 15 psi on water even new..do they have an high output model.....which kit do i need, if i order from here how long to get it,i live in tomball tx,

 

[john grimm]

another thing, as far as performance goes , plugs , lube ,ect. which is best, plugs that r in are BU8H,..

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Impeller longevity varies with the "water quality". Dirty, silty, muddy water will "wear" it quicker. The material hasn't changed much, and they should last. Stick with the plugs you have now. Yes, we do benefit from parts purchases....I get a paycheck every week..

 

[john grimm]

ok, have a kit emailed to me for parts, and lube ect...should i be concerned if i dont get 15 psi,...how long to get parts,

 

[john grimm]

no email,

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Internet probs yesterday....today!

 

[john grimm]

thanks

 

[Bob Bourget2]

You should have e-mail....

 

[john grimm]

i emailed him back,but gave him wrong size on steering, would like a price on 15' ssc135 cables(nfb) and the whole nfb kit,.came up with 14.6 thats running tape from end 90deg, over then along boat ,and over 90deg.to center steering wheel.... is the 15 enough..one i have now are too long they make a loop along inside boat



to clarify, ssc135 cables and ss152 dual nfb kit, need price if this the correct size,

question, how do i know if i need to replace the helm.

 

[john grimm]

i dropped it to see , it looks good, impeller, little to no wear, .....gonna get impeller and change it anyway,...but what else would cause the low pressure, the housing looks good (top part) havent pulled bottom part of pump out, didnt know if it would just pull out.or if i should....

 

[john grimm]

and what and where is the poppet valve

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Leave the "base" of the pump alone. Poppet is located on the stbd side of the block just below the electrical plate. Held in with 1/2" bolts. Remove, replace diaphram, flush with hose once off, re-install. "Poppet" controls water flow OUT of the block, and is pressure actuated.