Ulterra quits when switch to outboard motor is turned on

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1996 Nitro 896 Savage DC 175 EFI. Anyone know why my Minn Kota Ulterra turns off when the main engine switch is turned on? I know the Ulterrra is sensitive to voltage drops. Had an ipilot riptide wired the same before the Ulterra and it did not turn off.
 
Hey everyone still trying to figure out how the boat is wired. I have 2 boxes attached to the transom near the batteries. One contains the breakers for the trolling motor. The other box (label is deteriorated) has several wires coming from it. A red and a black go to the starting battery. Another red and another black go to one trolling motor battery. A red with a black stripe goes to the other trolling motor battery no black. Maybe this box has something to do with charging system from OB Motor?
 
I only have devices wired to the starting battery that are not susceptible to voltage drops such as running lights, etc. My trolling motor has it's own batteries and my locators are on another battery. Once I did this, no issues.
 
Your trolling motor should not be connected to your main power switch. I am not fully up on an Ulterra. Do you have a heading sensor connected to main power (probably tapped from on Sonar power) that could be somehow shorting your trolling motor? If so, try disconnecting this sensor to see if the problem still exists.

From your description the trolling motor appears to be a 24V motor. getting the 24V power from two twelve volt batteries connected in series (that single cable going from Positive of one battery to Negative of the other battery). These batteries should be independent from your cranking battery. The cranking battery should go to the main power switch on boat for the accessories. Are the three batteries connected to one 3 bank charger? If so, disconnect one of the charging leads to the cranking battery and see if the problem still exists. If that solves the problem, then the chargers has an internal short.
 
Thanks for the replies. Trolling motor is on its own system, so I thought and graphs are on their own. Yes the TM is 24V but they are not wired in series at the batteries. The 24 volts is made at the receptacle for the TM. I believe I have found the connection to the ignition. I have discovered that the second black box is a charging system. Maybe a DC to DC system? It has a purple wire coming from it and purple is usually color of ignition related wiring according to what I read. Both positive cables from trolling motor batteries connect to the breakers for trolling motor. But #1 trolling motor battery negative terminal is connected to the charger which would explain why only a positive (the red and black striped one mentioned above) wire goes to that battery from the charger box.(battery #2 negative goes into the breaker box for the trolling motor) A negative cable comes out of the charger and connects to the breaker box for the trolling motor. I am thinking that I should be able to disconnect the negative cable going to the charger from Battery #1 and connect directly to the beaker for battery #1. I do not care if the trolling motor batteries are charging when the OB Motor is running just the cranking battery. Don't know why the charger would need that large neg cable going to it from the trolling motor battery.
 
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Re Pics: This is what I think is a DC to DC charger. The black cable on the right with blue insulator comes from #1 trolling motor battery. The black cable on the left goes from charger to #1 breaker for TM. The other 2 smaller gauge red and 2 smaller black wires are supposed to go to the cranking battery and one TM battery, the smaller gauge red with black stripe is supposed to go to the positive terminal of #1 TM battery that the negative with blue insulator connected to charger comes from. Since switching to Lithium I did not connect the TM batteries up to the charger but did connect the cranking battery. Why would the charger need the negative from TM battery#1? This must be why power to TM is interrupted when the ignition is turned on. Very confused. Also will the OB motor still charge the cranking battery if the DC to DC charger is not connected to it?
 
If you plan on keeping this boat, I’d take out the antiquated charger and switch and go with new. Not a terribly expensive makeover.
 
If I take out the DC to DC charger and do not replace it (there is onboard plug in AC powered charger for all batteries) will the cranking battery be charging when the OB Motor is running?
 
This sounds like a hardwired safety bypass. Most likely. If it’s always done this then I’d assume there’s a safety disconnect switch that kills your ulterra when your outboard is on. To prevent you from blasting off without your troller stowed and breaking it. I’ve seen them before. It’s a safety bypass. It’s always better to install an isolator kit to allow your batteries to charge while motors running. After the starting battery has reached fill charge it will switch over to charge other onboard batteries. That and a good minnkota or Noco 3 bank onboard charging system would eliminate a lot of headache when it comes to safety bypass redundancy’s. They are a pain. But If this is something that’s recently just now started doing, then you may have some sort of relay issue. If the trolling motor has its own batteries it will either work or not work. It won’t drop and then start again after using the motor. If it’s too low amperage and voltage it will Simply not work anymore. I’d trace your main power wires from the trolling motor to see if they run to some type of enclosed switching rely housing. That alone would tell you a lot. It could be just a safety feature. Or you could have a relay shorting. But you need to trace the trollers power wires to see what’s between the battery and trolling motor. If you find an enclosed relay box that your trolling motors power leads to, along with some smaller wires, I’d try finding a product name and number on the junction box and find the installation specs so you can remove it and just put in a manual battery bank switch that you can manually use. If there’s already one on it then I’d bypass any possible junction. But don’t just go ripping out wires. Do your homework. Ulterras are spendy so identify, find literature/installation specs, and simplify unnecessary fail safes. And that is only if this is something that’s always been this way. If it worked differently before, I’d still start by tracing the power wires to see what all lays between the troller and batteries. Identify, research, diagnose and simplify. Hope this helps
 
Thanks for the reply inkslinginmofo7. I think that you are right . Prob a safety shut off. Have disconnected all wires to the batteries from charger except for the purple wire. The trolling motor batteries are now completely on their own system with NOCO 3 Genius plug in charger for TM batteries plus the cranking battery. Maybe the Crnk Batt will still be charged by the OBM, I'll test that tomorrow. The electronics are also on their own system charged with NOCO Genius 2 bank plug in charger. All new lithium batteries so getting through a days fishing without charging should not be a problem. Power to the TM stays on when the key to the OB Motor is turned on so I'm thinking problem solved. Planning on fishing tomorrow so will see how it works then. Thanks to all for the help.
 
Good day fishing. Forgot to take the meter with me to see if cranking battery was charging while OB Motor running. Going again today so will test later on. Trolling motor worked as it should, did not lose power when key was turned on.
 
Yes the cranking battery is charging from OB motor. Everything seems to be working as it should. Used trolling motor for 3.5 hrs and still had 13 volts so over 50% charge remaining. Started at 13.8V.
 
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