Albert Prado
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2012
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
Has any body mounted a transom mount transducer in side the boat? Like glue it in?
Help Support Nitro Owners Forum:
Tom Pulaski
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2012
- Messages
- 68
- Reaction score
- 0
Yes, this is a common practice or used to be. Your transducer has to have flat surface. Like a trolling motor puc. You can sand or grind a spot on the inside of you pad surface. Use a good epoxy and apply about a 1/4 " of glue, drop the puc in the middle. move it around a little then put a small weight on top. You are trying not to have any air bubbles in the glue. It will work at all speeds.
Jeff Darby
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2011
- Messages
- 50
- Reaction score
- 0
I've always had good luck using a mold from say a large paper cup or a piece of cardboard. Tape it to the location you want to put the transducer. Then pour the epoxy into the mold and stir it to get out all the air bubbles. Then place the transducer in the mold and push it down about half into the epoxy.
The ole point is to keep the air out from between the transducer and the water. It should be a solid surface all the way through the hull.
The ole point is to keep the air out from between the transducer and the water. It should be a solid surface all the way through the hull.
IF you want to use a shoot-thru tranducer, get the one made for that purpose, test for the best location BEFORE attaching it to the hull. Only use a slow cure epoxy (use the one that comes with the shoot-thru tranducer). Follow the installation instructions that comes with the transducer.
The proper shoot-thru has a flat face and a remote temperature sensor.
You want the least amount of epoxy between the tranducer and hull. The correct installation will make the hull vibrate at the same frequency as the transducer pulse and be sensitive enough to receive return echos through the hull.
The proper shoot-thru has a flat face and a remote temperature sensor.
You want the least amount of epoxy between the tranducer and hull. The correct installation will make the hull vibrate at the same frequency as the transducer pulse and be sensitive enough to receive return echos through the hull.
Humminbird Greg
Well-Known Member
+1 to what Wayne said.
Many years ago there were no inside-the-hull transducers. Everyone just took the transom transducers and epoxied them inside of the hull. The only difference in a Humminbird inside-the-hull transducer is the shape of the housing (some use the same housing), what it is packaged with (epoxy kit instead of screws and brackets) and that if it has a temperature sensor that it is on the end of a second 10-foot long cable so that it can be mounted over the transom and in direct contact with the water.
By the way: if this is a transducer for a new Humminbird unit that has not been mounted to a boat yet; call the Humminbird Customer Resource folks (1-800-633-1468) and talk to them about swapping it for an inside-the-hull transducer.
The best installations use an epoxy that has good accoustical properties. Many slow cure two-part epoxies do. The goal of the epoxy is to fill in any gaps between the hull and the transducer but at the same time you want the epoxy layer to be as thin as possible.
Pretest the installation location first! This is the only way to know that the location you choose will work. Many times have I dealt with someone who had a transducer "professionally installed" only to find out that the location was never tested on the water. You may have to sand/grind the coating paint off the hull. You want to bond the transducer directly to the naked fiberglass, not that layer of paint that has all those small air bubbles in it as this will decrease the overall sensitivity of your system.
Once a good location is found; clean and dry everything. You don't want any moisture, dirt, dust or crud in there when you epoxy the transducer in place. Mix the epoxy slowly to prevent introducing air bubbles in it. You really don't need that muck epoxy either. The amount we have in the epoxy kits that come with our inside-the-hull transducers is more than what is really needed. Add the epoxy to both the hull and transducer and when you place the transducer down; twist and press it into place to drive out any air bubbles as others have said. Place something on top of it to keep it pressed down to the hull. A plastic bag full of sand, dirt or gravel works great for this.
Finally: allow enough time for the epoxy to cure! Most epoxies will have about a 24 hour set time and a two-day full cure time.
Do it right the first time and you will be happy with the results for many years.
Greg Walters at Humminbird
Many years ago there were no inside-the-hull transducers. Everyone just took the transom transducers and epoxied them inside of the hull. The only difference in a Humminbird inside-the-hull transducer is the shape of the housing (some use the same housing), what it is packaged with (epoxy kit instead of screws and brackets) and that if it has a temperature sensor that it is on the end of a second 10-foot long cable so that it can be mounted over the transom and in direct contact with the water.
By the way: if this is a transducer for a new Humminbird unit that has not been mounted to a boat yet; call the Humminbird Customer Resource folks (1-800-633-1468) and talk to them about swapping it for an inside-the-hull transducer.
The best installations use an epoxy that has good accoustical properties. Many slow cure two-part epoxies do. The goal of the epoxy is to fill in any gaps between the hull and the transducer but at the same time you want the epoxy layer to be as thin as possible.
Pretest the installation location first! This is the only way to know that the location you choose will work. Many times have I dealt with someone who had a transducer "professionally installed" only to find out that the location was never tested on the water. You may have to sand/grind the coating paint off the hull. You want to bond the transducer directly to the naked fiberglass, not that layer of paint that has all those small air bubbles in it as this will decrease the overall sensitivity of your system.
Once a good location is found; clean and dry everything. You don't want any moisture, dirt, dust or crud in there when you epoxy the transducer in place. Mix the epoxy slowly to prevent introducing air bubbles in it. You really don't need that muck epoxy either. The amount we have in the epoxy kits that come with our inside-the-hull transducers is more than what is really needed. Add the epoxy to both the hull and transducer and when you place the transducer down; twist and press it into place to drive out any air bubbles as others have said. Place something on top of it to keep it pressed down to the hull. A plastic bag full of sand, dirt or gravel works great for this.
Finally: allow enough time for the epoxy to cure! Most epoxies will have about a 24 hour set time and a two-day full cure time.
Do it right the first time and you will be happy with the results for many years.
Greg Walters at Humminbird
Similar threads
