Tips for Loading Needed!

[Jim Clark]

Hello - Got a new Bass Tracker Pro Crappie 175 for my birthday! It is easy to launch and rides great. However it is a major headache to load back on to the trailer! The swing out tongue prohibits me adding a walk out plank so I have to walk in the water everytime to attach the winch strap and the rear of the boat never positions on the trailer straight. It is a fight each time to get the boat on the trailer - there has to be a better way. Any tips for loading would be appreciated.

 

[Steve Rizza]

I back my trailer in till the tops of the fenders are level with the surface of the water. Then I just drive right up onto the trailer.

It's far enough into the water to allow me to easily get up to the bow roller, but the side rails are out enough to keep it from blowing back off.



Plus I don't worry if it is sitting exactly centered between the rails. I't easy enough to straighten out once it's out of the water. Just grab it at the rear and start rocking it untill it's centered.



Steve

 

[John Glover]

You're going to get a lot of advice and instructions on this Jim. I've been loading my Trackers for 15 years now, and I almost always fish alone. So, I don't have the luxury of someone in the truck waiting for me. Pure and simple, I just back the trailer in until the step pads on the front of the rear fenders are just under or almost under the water. Then I approach in idle and if it looks good, I increase to a high idle as I hit the trailer, and without waiting for the boat to stop, I push up the throttle to run it either completely into the roller or, just short of it. After all, with Trackers, you really aren't dealing with a ton of boat and winching it up to the roller is pretty easy. By bringing the trailer that far up the ramp to start with (at least most ramps) I can just step over the bow and drop down onto dry ground and hook the strap and winch it tight. The real bears are those very shallow ramps, and some of those leave you no option except wet feet. You'll hear more techniques, so take your pick and try them out.

Jack

 

[Jim B]

Yep i think the guys have it right, it sounds like you are too deep for sure. If the fenders are under water you are in too far for sure. I normally put mine in to that the first 1" or so of the fender is exposed and my boat goes on perfect every time at any ramp. Ive done this same technique on my last three boats and it worked perfect.



One other thing to get is a pair of knee high rubber boots. I always leave mine in the truck in the spring so i dont have to get wet since most of the ramps by me done have a lot of slope so i have to wade in th ewater to winch it up. $30 and you wont have to worry about getting your feet wet in cold water again.

 

[John Belvedere]

I add Cabela's Adjustable Cross Member Guide-Ons to both my boat trailers. I have a 17' Nitro and a 12' V-Hull Aluminum. It sure simplifies keeping the boat centered on the trailer. Windy or not it self centers and holds it in position. Looks good on the trailer too. You can also add a extended hitch for when you are backing your boat in. You can get on 2' -3' and add some skid tape to the top to walk on. You can put it on when you are ready to pull on the ramp and not have to back in as far. Might be a pain to have to unhitch each time but it will keep you dry.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...tem-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276-cat21382&

 

[Jim in VA]

Jim - I think everyone has got it right that you are too deep. I usually drive my PT175 (same hull as your Pro Crappie) right onto the trailer without difficulty. For my trailer, I dunk the whole thing (to get the bunks wet) and the pull forward until the fenders are about 1/3 out of the water, then I slowly motor to it and, like Jack G., once I've touched, but before its stopped, I power the rest of the way up. I hop off the bow and I'm on the dry part of the ramp to finishing winching up the rest of the way or just attaching the strap if I'm up to the bow stop. Remember that for powering on, momentum is your friend!



If you need extra guide-on's at the rear, there's a way to add some home made ones constructed out of ladder braces and PVC - cost of about $35. I'll get some pictures of mine up if you interested in seeing what I did.

 

[Mike L.]

Hey Jim... I have a 2000 PC175. Here's what I did to make it easier to walk out

to winch up the boat up.



Buy a small can of the paint on truck bed liner and coat the top few feet of the

trailer rail where you will be walking. The black color makes it not even noticable

and it really helps to give you lots of traction to walk on.

Doing this made it safer and easier to work with the winch for sure!



Mike

 

[Jim Clark]

Thanks All for the tips and tricks. I have been loading manually - not driving on. Since my boat is new the throttle is sensitive (either too slow and stalls or too fast). I fear too much throttle may ram the boat on the trailer and damage my boat. I will try driving on this weekend to see what happens. I'll have the wife video record my first attempt - - it may be worth $10 grand on "Funniest Videos."

 

[KEVIN WERHAN]

Everybody has got it right, all I will add is, if the trailer is not level, the

boat will not center by itself. My pro guide is the same way. If my trailer IS

level, it self centers every time.

 

[William H. (Bill) Barham]

All good ideas here Jim. I have a PT-17 and have, at one time or another, used every tip here. Driving on is the only way to go. If I'm with someone I just drive on and tell them to go ahead and pull out. If I'm alone I do the same except I climb over the bow onto dry ground and then I pull out. If I haven't pulled the boat up far enough that's what my brakes are for. When I pull away from the ramp and get out of everyone's way I'll hit my brakes a couple of times and it slides up nice as can be. If it's crooked, I do just what Steve said, just rock it a little. One other thing I found that I love is what I provided the link for. It's a Stoltz Ultimate Bow Stop and it's a lot wider than what's on your trailer right now. Good Luck and congratulations on your new boat!



Uncle Billy


http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/s...10001_200004006_200000000_200004000_image_1_2

 

[William H. (Bill) Barham]

 

[Rick Hale]

Loading and unloading a DEEP "V" can be tough if you are alone.:blink:



This is what I do with my 18.5' Targa...

Have someone back the trailer in till the bunks are covered / wet.. Then pull forward till 1 to 1 1/2 feet of the front of the bunks are out of the water...

Drive the boat slow onto the trailer--One one hit the trailer and start to slow give it some more gas till you hit the front "V" - Keep the motor run forword..attach the hook and winch it up to the stop.



No way I can walk the trailer and get into or out of my boat..

Have been thinking of getting these steps.



Good Luck Rick
http://www.ezeestep.com/

 

[Marty Klein]

I've always had the opposite problem-I wade through water to put the boat in, but can easily jump to dry land taking it out. All good advice above.

 

[Teri C.]

Trust me when I say....you have to hit it really hard to cause any damage. I drive it up and have yet to make a dent or crack any fiberglass.

 

[Jim in VA]

Agree with Teri. I've driven my PT175 on pretty hard and the stock bow stop lasted four years doing that. I switched last year to the translucent yellow replacement stop (similar to Uncle Billy's picture, but not nearly as robust!).

 

[Larry Harp]

Float off.... Power on.