stress cracks

[mike chip]

Well i went out today and the boat kept taking on water. I thought the plug was not in correctly so i kept pumping it out. When i got in i crawled under boat out of curiosity and noticed stress cracks around the rivets alond the outside edge of boat. they are about three inches long on either side of the rivet. HAS anyone else had this problem. I am the third owner of the boat and tracker wont help at all.

thanks

mike

 

[Jason _G]

I have never had a problem like this, but what I can suggest is you check out your local welding shop. Maybe you can get it welded or riveted back together for a decent price.



Also do you have boat insurance? Maybe you can submit a claim for the repair work? Just some thoughts...

 

[Staci Matheis]

Mike -



You don't say how old the boat is..... Over time, metal fatigue is common in boats, airplanes, cars, bridges..... Anything that has any kind of stress or has to withstand flexing.



me!

 

[JEFF WHITE]

the cracks you are talking about.are they on rivets that hold the stringers in?look down the bottom of the hull,and see if it is straight or got slight bows inbetween the rivets?if the cracks are as long as you say,then welding the holes where the rivets including the cracks is the other option,then reriveting the stringers back down with 1/4"rivets in the holes.that will involve taking the decks up and a lot of the foam under the deck also.well,at least where the welds are going.



can you take a picture of them and post it here?

 

[Staci Matheis]

Oops..... Sorry, I should have looked in your profile.....



1996? It would be interesting to know what kind of treatment it got from the former owners, warranty history, etc.....

 

[Staci Matheis]

Listen to what Jeff (Magna19) says - he's the metal expert!

 

[Greg Meyer]

Yup!



Jeff's been helpin me with the tin foil hat I wear for a long time now... The Venutians aren't messin with me nearly as much!



Serrious...Jeff does know what he's talkin about, it would be a real good idea if you could get him those pix.

 

[Staci Matheis]

Greg, I keep tellin' ya..... You need the protection from those Venutian probes at the other end.....

 

[Greg Meyer]

Scott,



Thanks, I'll see if Jeff can help design some tinfoil pants for me to wear with my hat.

 

[JEFF WHITE]

ive been wondering about ya all!!i dont listen to the voices anymore!they keep telling me to throw a crankbait when i know a powerworm and a slider jighead works better!!



but seriously,if those pants dont keep the anal probes out,nothing will!!!

 

[mike chip]

Well i went to the welding shop today. 1100 dollars. It was a little steep for me, im getting married in a few weeks, so i will try the epoxy route for now. And try to fix it better in the winter. Will let you know how things turn out.

P.S. The rivets in question are the far outside on the bottom of the boat. The cracks go right thru the rivets and on to the otherside of them. It is six sets total. the livewell fill tube also cracked around it real bad.

mike

 

[Marke Cicero]

Mike,



$1100? That's insane. My uncle has an 87 Pro 17 and he had cracks welded for like $300 or $400. I recommend getting a few estimates. $1100 sounds very expensive to me.



Good luck,



Marke

 

[JEFF WHITE]

those more than likely go through the stringers.they hold the inner structure to the hull.it keeps the bottom of the hull from flexing in and a place to mount the floor and fill with foam.



keep a close eye on the cracks so they dont spread anymore.maybe a little jb weld around them will keep you going till winter.but will make the welders job a lot harder.he has to clean the stuff off to weld the hull.



you might save some change by pulling the decks up and removing the foam around the cracks.get enough room around them for a tig/mig torch to get in there.the foam can be put back with a spray can stuff.just dont overfill the void.remove just enough to work.



and make sure they use a tig welder on the cracks.that is the proper welder to use on aluminum.if the specs are the same as the 2000 models,hull thickness is .072" and 5052 grade aluminum.the welder will need to know this info so he uses the right filler material.he has to use 5052 filler on 5052 aluminum.this way the filler is of the same material as the parent metal,or bad things could happen.also use 5056h2 rivets in the hull where they are to be replaced.use 1/4" rivets in the stringers,which they should be already.if not they are 3/16".do not use pop rivets here,use solid rivets for these areas for watertightness.



i sort of went through the same thing with my boat.tracker welded a crack on my hull and replaced a few rivets in the stringers.they welded the crack from the inside of the hull.i wouldnt let them weld the stringer to the hull as the hull needs to flex a small bit.if they were welded solid they might rip off the hull and get a bigger hole in it where the weld was.also dont try to weld the rivets to the hull.it wont work too good,and be more of a problem than a soloution.



call tracker and ask where they have a repair center close to you,like a factory authorized service center for aluminum boats.they should be able to tell you that,or the local dealer should be able to help you out,or give ken(black flies) neeley a e-mail.he could get you the info,sorry ken,i had to!!



greg,the voices are telling me to go fishing this weekend!!should i listen to them???trying to talk mommy into a rally trip in april.its not working too good.shes being stubborn as usual!!the voices are telling me to go anyway!!

 

[Staci Matheis]

Listen to the voices, Jeff..... Listen to the voices.....



:^)

 

[mike chip]

Well, i went the jb weld route. I gave it 2 days to dry and them took the boat on a trip to smith mtn lake. On her madien voyage all the jb weld came off. Should i replace the rivets if they are not loose. The cracks go right around the rivets but they are tight. HEY KEN, where is the nearest tracker repair center in virginia.

P.S. Caught alot of bass (lg and small) and striper.

 

[JEFF WHITE]

you can,but the cracks will still seep water into the boat.the jb weld is pretty solid stuff.what you have to do is take some 80 grit sandpaper,or rougher and rough up the surface round the rivet and extend ot out away from the crack double the size.then use a good expoxy suitable for marine use on aluminum.there is a 2 part expoxy i seen at a marina that will cure underwater.it comes in a tube,all you do is rip off what you need and kneed it thoughly and press into the spot,a drop of water will smooth it out so it isnt too rough.



before you put the jb or whatever you use,clean the surface good with lacquer thinner,acetone,or enamel thinner to get all the grease wax and oils off the surface.try that until you can get it fixed right.



any pictures of the cracks?



scott,the voices told me to go fishing,but the body was stronger,the back said NO!!

 

[Staci Matheis]

Stop taking the drugs, Jeff.

The voices will get stronger, louder and more demanding.

It worked for me!