Need Electrical Help!!

[Kenji Snow]

Got my ProTeam 175 back from the shop last week, I finally got a galvanized trailer with brakes etc.. I had a problem with my motor trim switch. No power on the remote toggle located on the bow and no power on the throttle switch. So I had a shop take alook at it and after almost $400.00 They located and fixed a shorted wire. The previous week, I ran EVERYTHING to make sure the "Silver Bullet" would be ready to go. Everything worked great except the trim switches which the shop fixed. I get the boat back and took it out for a shakedown run and no fish finders (Fore and aft), no bilge pump, no livewell pump or anything else that works from dash switches which are usually lit when turned on but stayed unlit (no power). This leads me to believe that there is a main power lead for all the various accessories that was not hooked up OR a main fuse I have yet to locate that protects dash switches etc.. Any ideas? This is killing me, I dropped a wad and the original problem was fixed but now I'm dead in the water.



The "Bullet" is a 1998 Tracker Pro-Team 175 with a 60 HP Merc. Everything has worked well for the past 6 years.



Thanks,



Kenji



Thanks,



Kenji

 

[Peter Wulfekotte]

I have a 95 Pro 17 and everytime I have a problem like yours I found that it was usually a ground wire that didn't get connected. In the back of my boat there are one or two more ground wires then hot. If all of that stuff was working before I is very likely something simple like that. Did you check to see if you have a fuse box or check you in line fuses? Taking wires on and off a battery where you get that little spark can play havoc with fuses. Usually you'll find it's a simple thing to fix. Finding it could be a different matter. Start with the simple and easy things first. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[Jim in VA]

Kenji - I agree with Pete. Given all the equipment not working, seems like you have a power/ground issue somewhere. Here's what I would suggest:



1. Check the battery hook ups to make sure all the wires are connected. My 2002 PT175 has a number of wires to hook up so make sure they are all securely attached to the battery and the post screws are tight. If that's okay, then . . .



2. Check the battery itself. Make sure you're getting juice out of it. If you have a multimeter, use that. If not, you can pick up one at Radio Shack pretty cheaply. See if they guy behind the counter can show you the basic functions. Another alternative is to get the cheap automobile version that simply uses LED's at a set rating to let you know the charge of your battery. If that checks out, then . . .



3. Check the main fuse. On my 2002 PT175, the fuse panel is under the driver's console against the right side of the boat (starboard). Its a small black plastic sqare cover that pops right off. There should be a bunch of standard size flat blade fuses. Pull the main one out to check to see if its blown. If it is, any aftermarket auto parts store (Advance Auto, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.) should have them in stock. Get the same size rating. Check the other fuses while you're at it. If the fuses are fine, then you know that the problem is between the battery and the fuse panel. Now comes the fun part (not really) . . .



4. Check the wiring between the battery and the fuse box. To the extent you can, check for breaks or frays in the wiring. One way to cheat is to use the multimeter to see if juice is flowing the wires. You'll need to know which wires are hot and which are ground.



Good luck and let us know how it goes. Hopefully, this is something easy you can fix quickly!



JC

 

[Tony Payne]

And if they did it right... there is an inline fuse on the main power (to the dash) at the battery.



Check it.

 

[Richard Whittemore]

I've got wiring diagrams for your boat! I think they are in pdf format, you'll need adobe acrobat reader to see them. You can get the reader by googling for it.

Send me an email if you would like them.