Lock n Stow question

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Paul P

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I am going to buy a lock n stow but had questions for those of you who have one. Does the motor need to be dead straight for it to mount properly? Is it more sensitive to this than a regular old transom saver so that you end up playing with the steering wheel to get it turned just right so it can be installed correctly?



With this type of transom saver, does it also prevent the motor from turning while trailing so I can get rid of my old bungee cord that I wrapped around the steering wheel?



Thanks



Paul
 
It has no effect on steering. The motor can be at any angle and you will have to keep your bungee cord if you use one now.



Mini
 
mini is 100% correct i have one and just love it. Dont know about the bungee thou your motor shouldnt turn ??
 
I have one on my Opti and it trailers straight, never turns. If your motor is not quite straight it will straighten out as you trim it down onto the Lock-N-Stow.
 
I beg to differ but the engine will turn if the check valve in the power tilt and trim goes bad or sticks. Just something I saw last year.



BF
 
Can't imagine how the motor could ever turn when docked in a Lock N Stow. It is securely held by two attachement points and held down by the trim. I suppose if your trim went bad driving down the road, and the motor flew up, and the Lock N Stow fell off, then the motor could turn around. I will never have a normal transome saver again. The Lock N Stow is more convenient and more secure, and as Glen mentioned, no bungie.



Paul, do they make them for 115 engines. Be very sure of the model before you get it because they are engine specific.



NoCAL
 
Thanks for the info everybody! Looks like a little confusion on the motor turning part. I had assumed NoCal's explanation. I will be purchasing one.



NoCal - Yes they do make them for the 115. I'm not going to even ask if you miss your 188 given the rig you have now.:cool:



Thanks!



Paul
 
Yeah, I was out at Clear Lake on Thursday seeing if the Elite guys left any fish and it sure was nice to be out by myself in a 21' Triton picking up 2-4 lb fish on nearly every dock.

That Lock N Stow is great, I'll never go back to a conventional transome saver.



NoCAL
 
Is there a web site for Swivel-eze. I could not find it as I want to verify which lock-n-stow is for the 115. The packages do not say it fits and I would love to get one. I think the 135 opti and my 115 are the same dimensions but you never know!



Thanks!



Randy!
 
Randy



If I recall correclty, the BassPro catalog has 2 different Lock n Stow item numbers where each has the specific motor it supports.



Paul
 
I knew what he was talking about.....:)



I have not used one, but know people that have (and bent the pins so bad that it had to be cut off!).....



I dont see how it will effect the steering. The steering pivot is above (or after) the lock n stow.....the "cups" that use the trim bushings to set on do not move when the motor is turned....



Am I seeing/remembering this wrong?
 
Mini,

I'm not sure on the smaller hp Mercs, but on my 225 Optimax, the bolt heads that the "cups" fit into do turn when you turn the engine. If mine is not centered prior to bringing it down to the cups on the LnS, I have to go turn the steering wheel to line them up. Once down on the cups, if you try to turn the steering wheel, it will not make the engine turn more than maybe 1/2 a degree - not really enough to even see - but for sure - the engine will not turn even by turning the steering wheel once its down into the cups.



I've also heard of people bending the pins on them - most every case was something fairly severe though - someone rear-ending the motor with their vehicle, someone hitting a huge pothole or running up on a curve at a high rate of speed, etc... - most of those incidences of pins bending were not "normal use" situations - and even the ones that were severe - the LnS still did it's job. It may have been "toast" afterwards.... but still did it's job.



Paul, the "pins" he is refering to are the small pins that go into the holes on the motor - the ones that retract for you to put it on and take it off. Basically, they bent so hard during some extreme circumstance, that they had to be removed by force. The "extreme circumstances" I've seen would have turned a conventional transom saver into a pretzel. I have seen a severely bent set of pins - to the point they would not move at all. Didn't need to be cut out though - just took a large pin punch and hammer and tapped them out from the sides. Again - extreme conditions. I've trailered with mine for over two years - looks like new to this day.



All the best,

Glenn
 
i must have been thinking something else or sleeping when i posted but glen is correct ... joe
 
They do make one for the 1.5L opti's -- 75/90/115. The same one that is listed for the 135 Opti. Dont know about the other 115's.
 
Glenn,



You havent driven on the roads in and around Detroit have you? Some pot holes here are enough to swallow your vehicle!.....Ask Mac about his last Transom Saver....lol



Anyway, I agree that it takes some serious impact to bend those pins, but it does happen. Make sure you have a punch and a hammer to get them out when you get to the ramp :)



I still dont see what you are telling me Glenn about the cups turning....but it has been a while since I have seen one in use. I trust your statement....



I am going to get one. Nothing worse than that long transom saver you need with a Ranger.
 
The Lock n Stow is affected by engine turning. The engine has to be straight (within reason) to sit down in the cups on the Lock n Stow. The locating points that fit into the cups on the Lock n Stow are on the lower unit of the engine, so the engine needs to be straight to fit into the cups. Does it require tinkering everytime you use it, normally if you get your engine pretty straight, then you will have no problems mating with cups on Lock n Stow. Once the engine is trimmed down it rests solidly in the cups and will keep your engine from turning. These Lock n Stows are built much better than the Transom Saver. I have been using one for a couple of years and do not see any reason to return to the original Transom Saver. Now......the question has always been......which one the Lock n Stow or the Transom Saver provides the transom with the most support.....I suppose the verdict is still out on this and you will hear lots of reasons for each type, it is the ole Ford/Chevy thing. My money is going on the Lock n Stow unless something changes and I don't really see anything changing at this point. Another plus is you can put your Lock n Stow right in your boat as they have a very small footprint.



Kevin:wacko:
 
Great discussion and enthusiasm over Lock N Stows. We must really be boating enthusiasts!



Kevin -



There are some good threads on the effectiveness of Lock N Stows. A couple are



http://www.nitroowners.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=941407&REPLYCOUNT=20&sitename=nitroowners&LAST=1/2/2007_12:50:03_PM



http://www.nitroowners.com/shared/msgboard9e.asp?BOARDNAME=MSG&VIEW=942158&REPLYCOUNT=21&sitename=nitroowners&LAST=1/2/2007_12:50:03_PM



Here is an accumulation of my thoughts on the effectiveness from those threads ....



The purpose of a transom saver is to offset the moment created at the top of the transom where the motor is bolted to the hull. Using basic static mechanics, this is most effectively done by placing a transom saver in such a fashion that the radial distance of the resulting force vector is as large as possible from from the top of the transom. In the case of this motor hull arrangement, you would imagine that a force vector parallel to the hull centerline placed as low possible would be best. So for all practical purposes, this new transom saver is as effective for its "transom saving" ability. What it does have that some other transom savers do not have, is the ability to keep the motor from turning and it looks easier to use than traditional transom savers.



For the purposes of analyzing the transom saver, the boat strapped to the trailer is effectively one structure so mounting the transom saver to the trailer or to the boat itself does not make a difference on the impact to the lower unit.



The trailer is pretty stiff so can be considered rigid. You are correct Greg, there would be pressure points on the hull. The hull/trailer contact points are where the forces are transmitted. I would guess that the design criteria for a hull would have to consider how it is cradled on a trailer or else there would be a lot of broken hulls due to trailering. With Bunks the forces are distributed over a fairly large area.



Much better design than the old fashioned ones. The engineering point of view proves that the LNS has at least the same "transom saving" ability and does not have an adverse impact on the transom or hull. With all the additional benefits and features of the LNS, its a no-brainer.



 
"the radial distance of the resulting force vector"...."a force vector parallel to the hull centerline"....



Owwww!!! :wacko: Anyone have a Excedrin Migraine caplet I can have? :lol:



All the best,

Glenn
 
LOL. I'm a Mechanical Engineer who would rather be fishing:wacko:



Paul
 
The only important thing was my conclusion ...



LNS has a better design than the old fashioned transom savers. The engineering point of view proves that the LNS has at least the same "transom saving" ability and does not have an adverse impact on the transom or hull. With all the additional benefits and features of the LNS, its a no-brainer.



Like that new term "transom saving ability"?

 
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