Leakin' boat :(

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Alex Peterson

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Ok, so a few months ago my boat, '98 PT185, started taking on a little water. I finally figured out that it was coming in/out from BEHIND the reinforcement plate on the front keel of the boat. I took it to a place to see if I could just get some welding done around the whole reinforcement plate to seal off the leak. They say they couldn't just weld it because the foam inside could start on fire, so to get this done the whole front "guts" of the boat would have to be removed. Seeing as that was expensive and a long project I decided to try some things myself. First was Marine-tex. I spread that all around the keel plate and it seemed to work for two trips out on the lake, then it cracked off in a few spots and water started coming in/out again. I tried a couple other liquid soldiers, adhesives but everything seems to keep coming off where the orginal problem areas were. Is there anything that has worked for you? Has anyone tried JB weld? I am going to sand off the mess I made tonight and attempt to try something else, maybe JB weld. I was also thinking of some kind of spray foam that has a nozzle so I could put it behind the reinforment plate and spray in there???? Another option I was thinking about is putting on a little JB weld right by the problem spots, then laying over that with some Marine-tex, then using some construction adhesive to adhere a rubber strip, something like a keelshield/keelguard, to seal the whole area ??? So is any of this every going to work or should I pony up and have them gut the boat and weld it???? Here is a picture of the mess I made....the red circles are a couple of the problem areas....



<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/1650/boat1hj9.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>
 
Make sure your insurance is paid, and weld it, I think thats the only way your going to get a high stress area to stop leaking. I would guess that the foam has to be fire retardant so it should'nt catch fire.
 
I don't know for sure but I've been told...........and it is not it's recommended reason for application BUT.........a KeelShield has been known to seal the whole area around the center seam.....so I've been told..:)



TOXIC
 
JB weld will also crack.(been there done that)

Go to the local auto parts store and get some Permatex gasket maker. The grey stuff matches up perfectly. Clean the area very well to remove any dirt/wax, and apply a small bead.



It will flex instead of cracking. It wouldn't suprise me if you never have to touch it again.



I did a temp job on mine, and it lasted all year untill I removed the deck to have it welded.
 
ALEX:

I TOO, HAVE A 98 TRACKER 185, AND MY BOAT JUST STARTED LEAKING IN THE VERY SAME SPOT ABOUT SIX INCHES FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE. I HAVE TRIED ALL THE EPOXIES AND HAVE HAD VARIED RESULTS. ALL SEEM TO LAST ABOUT 2 OR 3 TRIPS TO THE LAKE.

I DID SEE SOME THING THAT REALLY SPOOKED ME THE LAST TIME I WAS OUT. I HAD MY BROTHER POWER THE BOAT ON TO THE TRAILER AND WHEN THE BOW EYE HIT THE TIE DOWN ROLLER I SAW THE WHOLE SPINE THAT IS REINFORCED FLEX. IM GOING TO TRY TO SEAL THE AREA AGAIN WITH SOME FISHING ROD EPOXY AND SEE HOW THAT WORKS. THE HIGH BUILD EPOXY IS FLEXIBLE AND SHOULD NOT CRACK. I JUST DON'T KNOW HOW IT WILL STAND UP UNDER WATER. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK I WILL TRY THE GRAY PERMATEX GASKET MAKER. WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW THIS WORKS.



MIKE



P.S. THE FOAM DOES BURN. SMELLS REAL BAD AND LEAVES A BAD BLACK SOOT.





MIKE

[email protected]























 
Toxic has a good point there (I hate to admit that), if the water can't get there it can't leak in?

I am not an expert but I did have a tin boat that leaked. Depending on how bad the leak is here are the options that came to mind. Auto bilge pump. If this is just a seal problem and not a structure issue thats my first choice. 2nd IF it's been leaking for a while the the factory flotation may be water logged and need to be replaced anyway? 3rd if you choose to have it welded, be ready to replace the deck and carpet also. I don't know if it's possible to remove and replace the front deck without damage or not. When Randy and I did ours we had to strip it down to a john boat and start over.

Good Luck

BF
 
my old tracker leaked real bad. i always used the clear silicone and it always stopped the leak.

mike c
 
MIKE...Remove your CAP LOCKS DUDE!:D

Take the front deck off, remove all foam in that area and take it to a proffesional welder and have it welded.

If it's leaking in, the seam under the cap there is cracked.

From what I've heard...it happens more with the earlier Rev Hulls like yours that are not completely welded.

Also that foam is not that flammable but, the problem is there is water already in the foam and it WON'T WELD! It will blow out the hole even bigger...been there and done it with a 94.

If you wan't to keep it and really use it....GitterDone! ;)

 
Thanks guys,

I hate to say it, but I am actually going to sell my boat, due to financial reasons. And I can't sell it while its taking on water. I want to get it done cheap, but I don't want to do some crappy job that is going to fail on the new owner. I decided to call a welder last night and I have an appt tomorrow to have him look at it. What do you think it will/should cost to have the floor taken out, problem welded, have new foam put in and then have the original floor replaced???? The carpet and floor is actually in really good shape so I don't think it will need replacing, unless like someone mentioned, the floor can't be taken out without ruining it. Is this going to run me $1000???? If its that much I may try to just seal it up with a Keelshield. Do those things stick well to aluminum????
 
Home depot, clear or aluminum colored silicone. will work. sand and clean it before you apply. very cheap
 
Silicone was the first thing I tried. I had cleaned the area very well before I applied it but the silicone still came off in the problem areas after about two trips.
 
sorry but IMO yes it's going to cost more than $1G.

figure est labor hours+est material+est overhead= about $1200--$1375 (my guess) now this is for what you stated you wanted done.

please keep us informed about the cost!!
 
Alex I wished you lived a little closer to me, (NC). I have been a welder for 25 years and have a machine in the garage. A little money for gas wire and elec, and a few brews for after the job and getter r done. I f you know anyone with a alum mig welder it might take an hour, little grinding to dress it up and your done, a lot faster than tig. Not as strong but you are looking for a seal not strength. Anyone around Charlotte that ever needs any welding done let me know I like to play. Welding only, yes you will have to take it apart.
 
Here's a tip Alex...it's what I did with my 94 that was leaking.

Trade it it on a new one and you'd be surpised on what they'll give you for trading same brand.

It was definitely a selling point for me:D

They gave me $4500 for my ol' 94 with a 60 that had been abused (by me) and had rivets missing and a crack. I wouldn't have bought it for $1000.....
 
TEE: That's an interesting thing you did. I wanted to do the same thing with my 92 Tracker, but BPS dealer said they would only accept trades on boats no older than 4 model years. What was the spread between your two?
 
Shoot man...find another dealer. Mine was 7 years old;)



Maybe they changed policy since then...I dunno.
 
Toxic is correct. I had the leak in the exact same place on my '99 PT185. Put on a KeelShield about 1.5 yrs ago and leak is gone. I know there not intended for or guaranteed to fix leaks but it worked for me. I took the chance.

If you put out one on, make sure the water is completely done dripping out, otherwise you will have an adhesion problem. I can't remember but I believe I installed an 8 ft. one and follow the install instructions to a tee. Prep work and hull temperature is very important for a solid install. Also a second set of hands will make the job easier. Carl
 
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