Hitch help

[Jordan Tremblay]

Guys, I have a 2000 896. There is a peice of the trailer that I would like to fix, but don't know how. Take a look at the pics below. When I accelerate and brake, the trailer slides along this hold and then settles at either end. It does this each time I accelerate and brake. This can not be good for the trailer as when it settles at either it, it is a little harsh when fully loaded. There is no way to tighted a nut or anything...it appears to just be a pin. Should there be a rubber stopper in there that is gone now or something? You can see in the photo where it is sliding along and taking the paint off the trailer. Thanks.

 

[Greg Duggan]

Jordan,

Just a wild geuss. Have you checked your brake fluid level? if the cylinder is empty, you will get a lot of movement in the brake assembly. When the cylinder is at the correct level the cylinder should be a hole lot smoother and a lot less movement.



GregD

 

[Mark Jaworski]

Jordan,



That movement is how your brakes get actuated. However, Greg is right, if the fluid is low it will move more. All trailers with brakes have that pin and they all move. When you decelerate the triler comes forward and the action applies pressure to the fluid to apply the brakes. When you put the truck in reverse a pin should drop so that the brakes are not actuated. If this does not happen you will not be able to back up. Since you did not identify that as a problem I would venture to say that its working properly.



Mark

 

[Jordan Tremblay]

I am able to back up, no problem at all. No resistance. I looked at my rotors and it doesn't appear that the pads are even engaging as the rotors do not look like they have been rubbed and have little to no wear...no recent wear at all it appears. I have no experience with trailer brakes so I appogoize for my ignorance. How can I fix this problem? Do I need to refill the fluid? If so, how do I do this?

 

[Bryan McDonough]

There is a shock absorber inside the actuator to prevent the harsh jolt when accelerating. Does sound like your low on fluid it if is happening when you brake.

 

[Mark Jaworski]

There should be a plastic cap on the top of the trailer tounge. I believe thats the fill hole for the brake fluid. Pop the cap out and there should be a fill nut. I have never messed with mine, but Im almost positive thats where it is. Check the fluid level.



Mark

 

[Jim B]

Jordan,

Check the link below, it will give you all the maint stuff for that actuator. Id bet liek the guys are saying its either low or out of fluid or there is air in the system. If its low i woudl fill and bleed it and make sure you have no leaks. There is also a shock in there that helps keep things smooth, if its work it will get clunky esp on takeoff. If its clunky on braking you most likley have a fluid problem.



Just an FYI these brakes always have a little clunk on take off when you take all the slack out of the actuator and hitch. I little clunk is normal, slamming and bangning isnt.


http://www.ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/A-60, 75 _ 84 Actuator Maintenance.pdf

 

[Mike Tosello]

Also, check the whole tongue assembly for grease fittings they may be there and give it a few shots of grease.... I dont remember if my 929 trailer had them, but I know the trailer for my Ranger does....





Mike

 

[Mini]

You can test if your brakes are working by unhooking the boat wire harness from the truck and backing up. If it still backs up, you are more than likely out of fluid. Add fluid as directed in the owners manual for the coupler. Retest. If you can still back up you have coupler failure.



You can buy the same coupler from almost any trailer supply store.



I do think there is a rubber bushing that might be worn or missing if the brakes are working.

 

[Rich Eder2]

Jordon, These are kind of hard to bleed if its out of fluid.It happened to me and I had to park the tongue of the trailer up hill and fill the fluid,go to the back of the trailer at the bleeder screws and open them slowly.Just a little each time making sure the fluid level doesn't get empty.You may have to do this 8-10 times until no bubbles come out of the bleeder screws.Both sides have to be done.Or take it to a mechanic.Good luck

 

[Roy Cody]

If you get yourself one of those hand operated brake bleeders, you can bleed them yourself. I picked up one at a local Harbor-Freight store on sale for $18.



RoyC