Hello All...newbie Here!

[Jim Smith]

Hello Board,

I am in Youngstown, Ohio and I just purchased my 1st boat. It's a 2000 Nitro 185. My parents always had boats, but this is my 1st time being the owner. Yea me!

I have NO experience with outboard motors, my Dad's was an inboard Century with a 454 engine. Extremely LOUD, fast and a P.I.T.A. to work on. I'm trying to learn the best positions for the outboard for quick take off (pulling skier) and how to level faster. The boat seems sluggish when taking off from a dead stop. Granted I was used to the "beast" my Dad had, but this seems like it is laboring to "get out of the hole".

Ski Pylon set up is another thing. I'm not exactly sure how/where the Pylon is set up. If anyone has some pics they could include I'd appreciate it.

Also any advise as far as waxing. Especially how to get the complete hull when on the trailer. Short of having a left, I have no idea how to get at those spots.

Finally, please be nice, I'm learning here!

 

[rbstern]

Hi, Jim. Welcome and congrats on the new (to you) boat.

You didn't mention which motor. Merc 115? 125? 150?

Regarding hole shot performance. Usually, the best trim position for takeoff is all the way down, or very close to it. As soon as the boat starts to climb on plane, you should be trimming higher. Takes a bit of practice to find optimum.

Generally, the fastest route to improving hole shot is getting the best possible prop for your setup. If you're not a speed freak and don't need every last possible mph at full throttle, I highly recommend a 4 bladed aluminum prop. For example, if you're running a 3 blade, 19 pitch prop, you might be best off with a 4 blade 17 pitch. I have a bow rider that does all kinds of cruising and water sports duty, and the single best improvement I ever made was going to a 4 blade prop. Boat just runs better in every way. Turns better, cruises smoother, and most importantly, gets out of the hole quicker. Probably sacrificed a mph or two at the top end, but I'd make that swap again, every day of the week, twice on Sunday.

Pylon setup: Did one come with the boat? Usually, a pylon setup goes like this: Main post in the rear seat receiver. The two braces run from fixtures near the top of the main post to receivers at the back of the back deck, or sometimes atop the transom. Like this:

Alternative: There are inexpensive, two point tow harnesses that attach to the trailer tie downs on your hull. They work well.

Lastly, about the hull waxing: It's a pain in the arse.

Required: Some cinder blocks, lots of misc pieces of 2x6, 2x4, 4x4 lumber, and a small bottle jack (4 to 5 ton capacity is fine). You use the bottle jack to jack the boat off the trailer a bit at a time. Be sure the head of the jack is against a piece of wood, not directly against the hull...the small head of the jack will crack the gelcoat. Start at the centerline near the transom. Lift a bit at a time, block it with the cinder blocks and wood (always wood against the hull, not the cinder blocks). Move the jack forward a bit, repeat. You can use the wheel jack at the front of the trailer to do the front (wheel extended all the way down, block the centerline about 1/3rd back, lower the wheel so the trailer comes down, but the boat can't.

It has to be done VERY carefully, on a nice, level surface, with the trailer well blocked from rolling. Personally, I wouldn't do it for hull waxing.

Depending on the trailer and shape of your transom, you may be able to use this technique:

https://www.auroramarine.com/aurora/dealers/06_tips_tricks/Pro-boat-raise.html

There's also a specialty fixture set made for this job. Attaches to the trailer. Pricey, but if you think you'll do it regularly, it's probably a worthwhile investment:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=98161