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Teri C.

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I have a calendar that gives a fishing tip every day. Today says:



If you are fishing with spinner-type lures, always use the swivel kind. This will prevent your line from twisting and breaking.



Please explain what they mean by "swivel kind". The spinner baits I use have the bend in the metal wire (or whatever you call it) where you tie your line on. I would not consider this a "swivel type". I have had a few occasion where the line has snapped when casting long distances and the lure went right in the drink. Hurts when it cost about $7. What causes the line to break?
 
Teri-

The 'swivel-type' they're referring to is probably an In-Line spinner, like a Mepp's...



I've busted off spinnerbaits as well...I think it happens when you get a knick in the line...then, when you cast with all your might...SNAP!



az
 
I believe the "tip" may be referring to the in-line type of spinners as these have a tendency to twist your line if they are not the rotating type.



As far as your line breaking..? You may have tied a bad not..u must wet the knot before you cinch it down, this cools and lubricates the friction between the 2 lines rubbing together in the knot. Other possibilities include old/bad line, a knick in the line from an underwater obstruction, previously caught fish bad rod guide ect.



While fishing, frequently pinch the first 12 inches of line in front of the lure, run your fingers down the line and feel for knicks. Retie several times a day, u'd be amazed at the damage your line incurs throughout your day on the water.
 
Check your knots, that one of the best advice I have learned. If in question re-tie, then tie , then tie one more time for good luck. Losing a lure sinks, but losing a trophy cause of a bad knot or kink sucks!

X

 
They're talking about the way the bladesd are attached...barrel swivels.
 
Teri -



I can't remember the last time I had line break while casting. (Of course, when you get over 50, you'll have the same problems!)



First, when you tie a knot, before you sinch it down, wet it with saliva. This will help lubricate the line and abrading/weakening itself.



Second, every once and a while, cut off the last foot of line before the lure and re-tie. This is the section that gets damaged most.



Third, which you likely already do, use a good quality line - not the bulk stuff from the bottom shelf of Wallyworld.



Finally, change your line ocassionally. I don't do it near as often as some of the others on this board - but I do it every couple of years.
 
Every couple years Me!???

whoa!

During the 'season'...I'm at every few weeks...at most, once a month...

At every couple years I'm surprised you're not breaking off more often...



az
 
Just to ease your minds, I do spit shine the line before I push the knot down. I change my line at the beginning of the season and usually somewhere around the middle with Triline or Stren. Maybe I just tie a bad knot on occasion.
 
Yeah..... I'm cheap..... I guess that I trim the line back often enough that I'm regularly into new stuff. And then have to respool anyway.



Also, I tend to lose a lot of line on snags; so I have to put new line on anyway. I figure if I'm not gettin' snagged, I'm not goin' where the fish are!



So, I guess that I should modify my answer slightly..... I only CONSCIOUSLY change my line every couple of years! LOL!! It gets changed by necessity every day or so! LOL!!
 
Yep..they are talkin' in lines. They are a must with roostertails and shysters and such. It can cause your line to break if you get enough...kinda' like not reelin' when drag is being pulled off. Twist is bad...unless your Chubby Checker:)

TEE
 
Last year when using co-polymer line, I lost too many lures like you mentioned, Terri. I found that with the co-polymer lines (especially), if you get a backlash, you better check your line for 'kinks'. Any kink that you get (especially in a co-polymer line), is just waiting to break on a cast.



Switched back to straight mono-filament. Problem solved (for the most part).



Tex
 
Seeing my $7 Bass Pro shop ordered spinnerbait flying across the lake just peaved me off. Of course my friend laughed really hard at the obscenities flying out of my mouth. Since then, I buy the $2-3 spinners. Don't catch much on those either.



Is it me (probably is) but several fisherman have told me "you can't go wrong with a Mepps squirrel tail". I've never caught a darn thing on a Mepps besides trees and weeds.



I think I am just a fishing tard.
 
Oh lord Teri...you are missin' out girl! I don't throw any of my spinnerbaits(not in-line)on no less than 10 lb. test and that's for 1/4 oz and smaller. Usually 12 to 14 lb. test. I always carry a lighter and singe the very end of my line also to help prevent slippage. Knock on woood(tap tap)...it really works whether you use an improved clinch or palymor:)

You have got to get that"sidearm" swingin' girl!

TEE
 
lol Teri, a tard you arent. At least you are out there and doing it, even if "doing it" is launching a few baits now and again. But dont worry, I do it a few times a year myself. Sometimes you just dont realize it because you are catching too many or you dont realize how frayed your line really is until you examine it.



I change my monofiliment and flourcarbon line about twice a month in the tournament season because I like to keep a full fresh spool. If I am not fishing tournaments I usually wont change the whole spool, I will just strip some off until I get to fresh stuff.



Back to your original question, I think Neeley nailed it. Use a "saftey pin" type spinnerbait with a quality ball bearing swivel and no swivel on your line. When using an inline spinner you shoule use a quality ball bearing swivel on your line to help reduce line twist.



Just a little tip....



If your line does become twisted, it will effect your ability to cast distances if at all. You can reduce or even eliminate the twist while on the water fairly easily by removing your biat and/or swivel and letting out line in the water while moving with the big motor. Be careful to not allow the line to come in contact with the prop, but if you let out about half to three quarters of your line and troll "nothing" the line will straighten out and most of the twist will be eliminated after you reel the line in.



Also if you use spinning gear alot DO NOT close the bail by turning the handle. In effect you are adding a twist evertime you do that. Close the bail manually and pull the line tight to the roller and you will eliminate over half of the line twist problems associated with spinning reels.



Ok now that I am warmed up for seminars....lol



Mini
 
Time to get one of these babies so long as there is some ferrous metal in the lure.



david....
magnet.jpg
 
I'd LOVE to get one of these and spend a few hours in a few choice coves and areas with rocks/blow downs and clean the bottom up and fill up my tackle box!!
 
Teri -



For in-line spinnerbaits, you can't beat a Roostertail !



They're only a coupla buxs each at Wallyworld. Work on trout, bluegill, crappie, bass..... I prefer them in gray, white, black or brown.



Stick with the medium sizes. The small are ok for trout and very small fish on ultra-light tackle. Medium sizes catch everything. Large sizes tend to not ride straight unless you retreive them very quickly.



Only bad thing is that they do twist your line. One day of casting one and you'll have to re-spool. You'll also have to frequently trim back the twisted portions.



me!
 
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