Bunk 2x4 material

[Paul P]

Hi



I am undertaking replacing my bunks this weekend. I was planning on using PT 2x4's. What are the thoughts on using synthetic wood instead? Is that overkill?



Paul

 

[Tim Koepp]

If, by "sythetic" you mean vinyl?: its my understanding that it doesnt have the same load bearing capability as wood (say yellow or white pine). I looked into it on a deck earlier this year and while 24" on center was ok for wood, 16" was required if using the non wood or almost wood products.



That said: it may still have the "load bearing" you need for bunks.

 

[Marty Klein]

I chose not to use it after seeing my sidekcik use it on his tin boat. It seems awfully flexible when the boat was off the trailer [like it couldn't provide appropriate support]. However, when he put the boat on the trailer it looked as snug as a bug in a rug. I just didn't have the confidence that it would support my First Class Glass boat. I can't see it as being overkill if it extends the life of you bunks.

 

[Tim King]

Paul,



If your are talking vynil, I wouldn't go there. Most of the Vynil boards I have worked with are hollow with stringers in them. This would create a problem of fastening to the trailer. If you are talking the composite boards, I don't think the support would be there that you would need for trailering. Granted they would out live the regular old wood boards by far.



Tim-I agree about the load support, but it also depends on the Manufacturer of the vynil. We used Brock products and they said we could put supports up to 36" on decks, but they reccomended 24" for "optimum performance".



I would just stick to the PT wood. It has worked for years. I think if there was a better option someone would have come up with it by now, and they would be using it on all the trailers now a days. Surely they wouldn't have overlooked something like that.



Tim

 

[Tim Koepp]

I gotta find me some of that Brock material. 36 on center is almost.... well, amazing for anything less than i-beam. googling it now! I suspect others will chime in and either agree or say not necessary. but from my experience the bolts and the holes they leave in the PT wood is the weak point. I have same project on the books for this winter and plan to go with stainless lags and fill the predrilled hole with clear silicon. it seems to make sense that it will help. at the local public access sites I have frequented in the last few weeks, I have seen loose bunks, but only one with visible rot. Sneaky dang things go bad from the bottom.

 

[Gene B]

The Trex type stuff (if that's what you meant) is also way too flimsy for bunks. Stick with treated.



Gene

 

[Paul P]

Ok it looks like PT then.



I got some recommendations on other supplies I would need from another NTOWs threads that I started. Just a couple of other questions.



It was suggested that I fill the pilot holes with Marine Grade RTV Silicone Sealant. I could not find this at the car parts store (NAPA) so I picked up some Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant. Is this good enough?



For glueing the carpet to the bunks, outdoor carpet adhesive and 3M Super Trim Adhesive #0809 were recommended. Which is more appropriate or just easier to use? If nothing else then which would be cheaper?



Thanks!



Paul

 

[Berry Lindley]

You may be over thinking this. I think most folks use treated wood with stainless staples. The last bunks I replaced with treated and staples looked good after 10 yrs and I traded the boat with them looking good.

 

[Greg Meyer]

Do Not Under Any Circumstances Use Pressure Treated Wood Under An Aluminum Boat!!!!!!!!!



The new copper based products will leech through wet carpet and eat the aluminum in a matter of hours!!!!

 

[Jim in VA]

There are composite boards made especially for trailers and lifts. There on the link below. Never used them. Don't know anyone who has, but its an option to consider. Frankly, I've been lucky in that my Tracker's bunk boards were rock solid for five years and still going strong when I sold it. They were NOT pressure treated wood. The bunk boards on my 2003 G3 are original as well and still going strong. Seems to me that so long as the water can drain and the boards can dry, there doesn't appear to be a big advantage to pressure treated. Given Greg's latest post, seems like pressure treated would be a down side for tin rigs.
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html

 

[Greg Meyer]

Tom,



Read the advisories from the lumber yard. My first "warning" came through my tournament travel partner, an over the road trucker, who showed me photos of an aluminum trailer that had hauled a load of pressure treated lumber about 500 miles through a rain storm. That trailer sat overnight before it was unloaded. The brand new trailer had 1/2 to 3/4 inch "craters" in the deck... about 4-8 inches across and in one case a crater that was over 1 foot long and that deep. I would not risk being "protected" by hull paint! The advisories are very clear... not near aluminum and water... duh... sounds like a bad combination for an aluminum boat... LOL

 

[Tim Koepp]

I just happen to have a "BFF" that sells for "Finish Master". They carry full line of 3M products. the correct # for 3M Super Trim Adhesive #0809 is actually #08090. It is typically in stock as its a pretty common item.



http://www.finishmaster.com/



Locations: http://www.finishmaster.com/locations.cfm