What size line for crankin

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fatrap

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What size line does everyone use for crankin? I'm currently using 10lb Trilene ET but is there a better line? Used to use Maxim but it was like wire. I was recently told that 10# after you made your knot was actually about six. I tie a polamar and thought it was 95% knott strenght.

I bought three of those BPS reels five ball bearings on sale marked down from $109 to $79 and with my discount they were $36 each. Now I'm figuring what to string them up with. Any ideas.

Also does anyone have a Bagley's DB 3 in bone color they don't use. I lost mine last fall and can't find any bone colored crank's except a wiggle wart. I just kill em on one lake with that color

Thanks

fatrap
 
I really like the Berkley smooth casting. I also like p line xt in certain situations too. As for size of line that depends on the conditions.
 
I've tried several from Trilene XL, P-line,to Rapala Long Cast. I now have Suffix Siege on my crankbait reel. Always 10#.



Harpo
 
If the knot is tied properly the line strength should be close to 100%. I use 10 lb for most cranking, some times up to 14 lb. when fishing shallow cranks in alot of cover.
 
Suffix Seige is what I have been using lately.... Stren is good, so is P-Line... If you want to spend the $$, the "Machine Gun Cast" from Japan is _very_ good.



Tee has been touting the Cajun Red Line... I've got a reel spooled up with it for testing to see how it performs.



For Crankbaits... you have to consider the overall diameter vs strength issue, especially if you are deep cranking... When we go nite fishing for Stripers/Walleye, I used the 15-17# test lines... sure, it isnt going to last long as far as memory, but it will handle the abuse and the trophy we hope to catch... If I'm day fishing bandits for smallmouth, I'm likely to use 10# test.



 
I like original stren also or bass pros excell has been real good too in 10lb. I have'nt tried the p-line yet.

I tried the cajun red line last yr in 8lb and liked it alot. I like to use it with smaller crankbaits spinners and buzz baits or even when doin some blue gill/crappie fishin with a float because the line is hard to see.

Is the p-line like the stren as far as low memory????

Steve ><}}}}'>
 
What type of rod and what reel gear ratio do you guys use for crank baits?
 
Depends. If i am grass fishing i like to use a heavier rod. I typically use a fairly limber 7ft glass rod for a lot of my crankbaiting. You can really sling that thing, and it prevents me from ripping the crankbait out of the fishes mouth.
 
You want a Moderate to Moderate Fast action... (Loomis CB series or St. Croix CB) - I've had good luck in the past wiht the BPS 'crankin' stick' but the loomis and st.croix are lighter (and more expensive)...



Pick the power of the rod based on the size of the cranks you'll be throwing.. I like a medium/3 power for most bandits/wiggle warts and the like (75% of my cranking) and a MH/4 power for the deeper/bigger cranks.



I use 6.3:1 for the most part, but have swithced to 5.2:1 for the deeper crankers, and may switch to that ratio for all cranking.
 
Hi Sim



I'm used to action being described in terms of light/med/hvy. How does moderate and fast match up to those terms?



Thanks!
 
The Cajun Cast is great for cranks...been usin' it for two years now and no problems especially with memory:) If I'm throwin' open water I may even go down to 8 lb. but, never lower. 10 lb. test is good place tp start....

Rod is gonna' be a preference thing.. some won't throw cranks unless they got a slow tip rod like glass. I found a Browning IM6 rod last year that has a slow enough tip for small to medium cranks....
 
Paul...



This is a common problem in the industy...



power (Light, Medium, etc... (or the numbers for Loomis) refers to the ability of the rod to handle different techniques (line sizes, wieghts, etc... ) - think of it this way.. a medium rod (a loomis 2) will handle 1/4 - 5/8... 1/4 being the minimum to load the rod, and 5/8 being the max before the rod is "overloaded".



Action (fast, moderate, slow) refers to where the backbone of the rod starts (or where the tip 'stops' flexing easily)... generally speaking, a fast rod flexes to the first third, Moderate the middle third, and slow the last third. It can also similarly refer to how quickly the rod wants to be 'straight'. This is where the rod 'loads' to.



-- Most Graphite rods are 'fast'... most glass rods are 'slow'... but people don't like to buy 'slow' things.... :)



-- the Majority of rods on the shelf today are of the fast variety.



The debate between graphite/glass for cranks is ongoing, and much of a personal preference... I like the more moderate actions for two reasons:



1. I can cast farther because I can get more of a 'whip' affect with the crankbaits. (the slower action allows the rod to load better)... longer casts == cranks in the strike zone/depth longer.

2. A surging/jumping fish is less likely to throw/tear the hooks because the rod straightens slower. (the slower action allows the rod to stay loaded).





Tee... I've got 6 and 10# spooled up... largely because of your recomendations. I've also done some tank tests with it (in my 220 gallon tank... 30" tall) That line does nearly disappear... and is almost impossible to see - especially against rocks/plants. Similar pound test in straight mono was clearly visible. (to the naked human eye).





 
I really think line color is a thing most anglers including me, can't seem to get around . Over the years though I have definitely changed my mind. I used to not throw anything that wasn't clear in clear water...but, boy was I wrong!

I now use red line and even the bright chartruese for crappie line and have increased my catch considerably.

I am a firm believer now in it not effecting catch rates....Even people like Wally Marshall also believe that bright line actually acts as an attractant.

Somethin' else for thought...think you can really see that red line? Try to see above water...I'll guarantee you'll have trouble. I can see clear better above water;)

 
well... I'm not trying it 'because' it disappears... just saying that part of the marketing 'hype' may indeed be true.



IMHO... fish don't 'see' line... they may feel it, they may know its there, but they dont have a clue as to what it is.



To me, the important factor to consider is the line's action on the bait... how it moves it thru the water.



Line Shy simply means to me that the bait wasn't acting quite right until the appropriate size was used (appropriate for the lure and/or conditions present).



 
I use a BPS and a St. Croix cranking stick. like both fine. Looks like a lot of people throw 10 pound. Thanks for the info

fatrap
 

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