Need help with sonar power issue

[carolinarog51]

I recently bought a 2007 Nitro 750. I just put 2 hummingbird fish finders on it (798 & 898). I spliced the power into the wires all ready being used by the stock Lowrance that came with the boat. They will only stay on if I keep the key in the run position on the ignition switch. I was just killing the motor with the kill switch, but I think I am doing something wrong. The last time I went out, I got stranded because the cranking battery died. Autozone told me it was a bad battery, but when I tried to take it back to Walmart, they tested it and said it was good and would not let me swap it. The battery is only 3 months old. Is what I'm doing hurting the battery, or do I need to re-wire the fish finders?

 

[Okuma]

Did the Lowrance work the same way, did you have to keep the key in the "run" position?

What size battery are you using for your starting battery, and it is it a deep cycle?

I use one of these on my skiff and it works great. I run two halogen spreader lights, lowrance HDS-7, radio, and nav lights and it still cranks right up, even after sitting with everything on for a couple hours.

I use the one that is $214.99 on this page: http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-12Volt-Deep-Cycle-Marine-Batteries/product/58337/

 

[AirForce]

I don't run ANY electronics off my starting battery. I added a "house" battery that gets charged when the motor runs via a VSR unit. ALL the electronic stuff gets added to the house battery. NOT good to keep the ign key ON - and it shouldn't have been rigged that way. Somebody wired it to the ign wire when it should have been run to a hot wire with its own fuse. Better yet to a positive distribution system (aka fuse box or dist. point, even to the battery).

Others will say get a GOOD (high RC value) battery - but in your case, its definitely wired wrong if the ign key has to be on for graph to work.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Agreed. Although my boat has a Blue Top Optima for a starting battery, the last 2 times out in the cold the 250 has been an absolute bear to get started first thing in the morning. After the first start, it is like clockwork the rest of the day. Carlos is convinced it is the Optima so I'm off to get a Sears PM1 and new battery tray. $260

 

[AirForce]

Oh and
carolinarog51 forgive my poor manners for forgetting to welcome you to the forum - welcome aboard

 

[BASS AKWARDS]

carolinarog51, Welcome aboard, glad you found us. Your graphs should not use that much power, when you have the key in the run position you are activating solenoids, gauges etc using up your battery reserve.
Having your graphs hooked up to your starting battery, to me is ok, I call the main battery, "the get me home battery" Big motor, bilge, running lights and the graph is all that is on that one. I run everything else on separate batteries.
It is possible that the original graph was hooked up on the hot side v/s the switched side of the key switch which either is a terrible place to tap. Reason being, is that the ignition switch's fuse is normally a larger amp (20-30) to compensate for the demand of staring the engine, if your graph's power is tapped there and there happens to be a short in the wiring, you could blow you graph long before the fuse blows. Most graphs us a 5 -7.5 amp fuse.
There should be plenty of places to tap a constant hot (fused) wire under the console. It sucks that one place is trying to sell you a new battery while the other does not want to honor a warranty. Hope these responses help, let us know how works out for you.

 

[Brian Fajkus]

I've just recently purchased (less than 2 weeks ago) a 2007 nitro 482 which is similar to your 750. Mine has a master power switch located next to the key which appears to be for the accessories only. Somebody correct me if i'm wrong. When the key is off I need the master power switch on for my graph and livewell to work. Might be something to look at.

 

[Lorenzo D]

I've just recently purchased (less than 2 weeks ago) a 2007 nitro 482 which is similar to your 750. Mine has a master power switch located next to the key which appears to be for the accessories only. Somebody correct me if i'm wrong. When the key is off I need the master power switch on for my graph and livewell to work. Might be something to look at.

Yes on my nitro if the master power switch is off nothing will operate on the boat except the auto bilge switch to pump out water in the case of rain of flooding.

Most electronics recommend running straight off the battery. If you can wire it that way is best. Remember to use the correct fuse as close as possible on the positive side of the battery. Hope that helps you.

 

[Ron Himmelreich]

I have a 2004 NX750 and it has a master power switch too. I have an Elite5 and an Elite7 plus the livewell aerator and recirc pumps that run off the starting battery (Sears PM1). It never gets drained or even close to it. I have all the electronics through the master power switch with one exception and that is the Elite7 on the bow. I am planning on routing it to the breaker panel under the dash which will put it on the master power switch.

You need to start over on the wiring. You invested a lot of money in new electronics, now spend a little time getting the wiring right. The NX750 is one of the easiest boats I have ever owned when it comes to running wires. If you are in the Atlanta area, I'd gladly meet up with you to help out.

RH