changing TM

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Jay Hicks

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Any Ideas? I have a 2001 nitro 640lx. I am trying to change out the old TM for a new MK but can't seem to be able to get to it. I can't reach the nuts through the rod locker, and the I removed the front panel and can't fit my arm through it. The only thing I can think is to get someone with a really skinny arm, or split the boat, which I really don't want to do. Am thinking of having the dealer do it but that seems like a waste for a really easy job, IF I could get to it. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I have a 700lx, when I replaced the trolling motor I had to take off the plate where the trolling motor plugs in and cut the opening out as big as I could , leave just enough room so that the plate still covers the newly cut hole. its still a pretty tight squeeze but it can be done. when I put my new trolling motor on I bought minnkota trolling motor isolation bolts, they go in from the top, so you dont have to reach underneath to put your new motor on ,They cost about $20.00 and are WELL WORTH THE MONEY. I picked them up at West Marine
 
No you didn't cut your deck out to reach the bolts?:eek: Dude, I hope you fabed a plate to reinforce the area? TM replacement is pretty straight forward. You need to tape a socket on an extender of some sort (or get someone with long skinny arms who likes fiberglass shards. Most trash the "Isolator" bolts a.k.a Jacknuts:lol: For fender washers and locking nuts (nylocs or equivalent) and never look back. The Jacknuts will work loose in short order and you will be forever tightening them.
 
The area that I cut out out already has a hole there all your doing is making it a bit larger so you can reach in and be able to work,It doesnt compromise the strength of the deck in any way that I can see. I did mine over three years ago and have not had any problems. It cant be any worse than cutting a hole in your deck right where you stand to install a recessed trolling motor foot petal and people do that all the time.

The isolater bolts will work their way loose, I just make sure to tighten them a few times each season, Like I said its been over three years and no problems.

My buddy took his Nitro to the dealer to have his new tolling motor installed and paid them $350.00 to do the same thing I did.
 
My bad, I thought you cut out the top of your gunnel. I re-read it. But I would still not use isolator bolts. SS nuts/screws with fender washers and nylock will not come loose until you want them loose.
 
Thanks for the info ,I may go back and try to get ss/ nuts,bolts and washers on there at some point ,but I think I"ll wait until I have to do it,I dont feel like shredding my arm unless its absolutely necessary
 
What I did I my old boat was tape a box end wrench to a rod and tape one side of the box end to catch nut. Gotta get a little creative and patient. Don't cut up your boat to install a trolling motor.
 
If I sent you a picture of the area that got cut out you would not even notice it unless you were looking for it,You can make the hole big enough to work in without "cutting your boat up"
 
I ended up finding someone with skinny arms and got it done without cutting and was able to use the right bolts. And NO, she did not like the fiberglass shards.
 

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