Anyone ever try the Ultimate Bunker Boards? These are made of composite material and I believe have rubber gommets infused into them somehow. They are suppose to have a life time warranty as well. Two years ago I coated the tops/sides of treated 2x4 with truck bed liner coating from Lowes and used silicone/rubber caulking put beads in multiple places along the new bunkers which should last a very long time considering marine carpet traps water in and rots your boards. Looked great and worked fine for a few trips but then I noticed that the silicone/rubberized beads were rubbing off too easy due to the non-stick texture of the coating which also happens to be abrasive. Ultimate Bunker Boards run about $300 for a set for my '04 NX882. Any body try them or thought of any other ideas for bunkers? What about the plastic skids you can screw on top of bunker boards, will them harm the fiberglass finish?
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Greg Duggan
Well-Known Member
Home depot indoor/outdoor carpet and a couple of PT 2x4s will do the trick.
Leave the bottom side of the bunks open to allow water to drain.
GregD
Leave the bottom side of the bunks open to allow water to drain.
GregD
Scott Hammer TOXIC
Well-Known Member
The Ultimate Bunk Boards work as advertised.....and that's the problem, they are slicker than whale snot. Mucho extra precaution needs to be taken loading and unloading your boat. It will end up on the concrete or in the bed of your truck.
TOXIC
TOXIC
Idriller
Well-Known Member
I know this is an old thread, just curious if there were any updates on the ultimate bunk boards
I've decided to go with "good enough" on carpet bunks. These hard rubber and other composite materials are likely not good on fiberglass/gelcoat finishes. Also, I don't care for the slippery aspect of some of these materials. Carpet and wood have been used a long time and do the job effectively.
It is important to do a good inspection, on a regular basis to be sure the wood bunks aren't rotted and breaking under the boat. I learned quickly that the factory bunks are of the poorest quality wood absorbing water like a sponge and leaving the bunks about like a soft sponge much quicker than you think.....
It is important to do a good inspection, on a regular basis to be sure the wood bunks aren't rotted and breaking under the boat. I learned quickly that the factory bunks are of the poorest quality wood absorbing water like a sponge and leaving the bunks about like a soft sponge much quicker than you think.....
Idriller
Well-Known Member
That’s what I`ve noticed is with my boat barely a year old the bunks are deteriorating pretty quickly.
Idriller,
Stay on top of that issue. If the Bunk lag screws are done like mine were, you will find that these were screwed through the bottom bracket up through the wood with the pointed tips facing up toward the bottom of the boat. If the wood breaks down you will have some serious gouging on the bottom of your hull. I got the tandem trailer for my Z-18 which is the same one used for bigger boats. I found early on that they had split the bunks in places pretty badly installing the lag screws. I bought all new treated wood bunks already carpeted through Amazon and replaced all mine within the first 18 months of buying the new boat (2017). These new ones I installed are not rotting away at all.
DONAOL
Well-Known Member
Good to know thanks for the tips.
Idriller
Well-Known Member
Mainly what I’ve noticed is the leading edge of the carpet towards the back of the boat is mashed pretty flat and when you peel back the carpet from the bottom the boards are already turning black in places.
TomT
Member
The screws that hold the white 15" plastic skids are countersunk so no damage to the boat. I only added them to my two lower bunk boards. It helped a lot. My wife can actually winch the boat up now. She likes them, and they are slick when they get wet, so be careful launching, and keep a line on your boat.
Hommy
Member
Hello. We are new to boat ownership and have a possibly silly question. How do you work on rotted bunk boards? Do you take the boat to the lake and have someone in it 1/2 day while someone else drives trailer home to work on boards? Where do you buy the fabric for the boards? (I have seen listings at different sites, but am hoping someone has a source of great fabric at a good price.) Is this something that is ridiculous to ask a boat repair shop to do? I am handy with a staple gun and fabric, but not so handy on levitating the boat.
I measured the old bunks, got new treated wood and new carpet. Put them in the back of the truck. The next trip to the lake I launch the boat, tied it off and in the parking lot, I switch out the bunks on the trailer. Took less than an hour. Remember to bring a portable drill/screw driver to remove the bolts
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=boat+tra...iler+bunks,aps,166&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_18
Several yeas back, I purchased (Amazon seller) the bunks, already wrapped in the proper length to replace. The ones i bought were pressure treated wood that had a rubber pad wrapped in under the carpet cover. The came ready to install. They are not cheap but buy the time you purchase all the stuff you need to build your on it's not a lot more expensive this way. I've had no issues at all with them and they are not rotting after a full three years service. Mine get wet several times every month of the year...
If you purchase the boards, already wrapped for installation, you can do this at the lake while your boat is in the water, off the trailer. At your home, with a couple of jacks and 2"X4" studs you can do one side at a time buy supporting the boat away the trailer bunks on one side, change them out one at a time, then do the other side. It pretty simple to do at the lake- just be sure you have all your tools and bolts needed for the job.
Several yeas back, I purchased (Amazon seller) the bunks, already wrapped in the proper length to replace. The ones i bought were pressure treated wood that had a rubber pad wrapped in under the carpet cover. The came ready to install. They are not cheap but buy the time you purchase all the stuff you need to build your on it's not a lot more expensive this way. I've had no issues at all with them and they are not rotting after a full three years service. Mine get wet several times every month of the year...
If you purchase the boards, already wrapped for installation, you can do this at the lake while your boat is in the water, off the trailer. At your home, with a couple of jacks and 2"X4" studs you can do one side at a time buy supporting the boat away the trailer bunks on one side, change them out one at a time, then do the other side. It pretty simple to do at the lake- just be sure you have all your tools and bolts needed for the job.
Hey Hommy,
If the boards are rotten and need to be replaced I use ruff sawed ceder boards as the ceder never riots.What I did was I measured the boards then re-carpet them. Then I got stainless carriage bolts with lock nuts and washers. Lunched the boat and have a cordless drill and put on the new bunks. When you drill the holes thru the bunks install the bolt from the top when you tighten the bolt down it will counter sink it's self below enough as to not contact the hull.
If the boards are rotten and need to be replaced I use ruff sawed ceder boards as the ceder never riots.What I did was I measured the boards then re-carpet them. Then I got stainless carriage bolts with lock nuts and washers. Lunched the boat and have a cordless drill and put on the new bunks. When you drill the holes thru the bunks install the bolt from the top when you tighten the bolt down it will counter sink it's self below enough as to not contact the hull.
Hommy
Member
Thank you for the info!
Hommy
Member
Thank you for the link! I appreciate it.
