Transom Saver or LocknHaul

[tightline 700lx]

I have had multiple boats over the last 12 years and always used a transom saver, usually the cheap one with the plastic "v". I have also had the kind with the four little ruber pads but didnt like that kind because it was difficult to get off and the rubber was short lived and it eventually started to damage my LU. Have to buy a new transom saver and I started to hear about the LocknHaul unit. But it looks like it would not aid in supporting the motors weight at all. I know the point is to releive stress on the hydrolics and secure the motor but it seems like the transom saver does that and more so why would the LocknHaul be better then a transom saver.



Just wanting to start some conversation.

 

[Sean Troy]

I've wondered the same thing and will need a replacement this spring.

 

[Ron Himmelreich]

At the bottom of my post is a link to a thread about this very same subject. I reread it and I think I come off kind of arrogant with the whole college degree thing. It was meant as a joke! Anyway, read away and if TOXIC reads this, I think I owe him an apology!



I would add that I use one made by these folks but Lou only makes them for Mercury Motors...

http://shop.lsdcnc.com/Toters-1080.htm
http://www.nitroowners.com/msgboard9e.asp?boardname=msg&view=1107014&replycount=6

 

[Chris Droke]

I have the swivel-eze lock and stow, I think that is the correct model. It goes from some holes on the motor mount to the nut/bolt heads on the front of my motor.(Mercury)

I have had it for about a year and a half now and i like it. I have not seen any problems other than the rubber inserts that contact the nut/bolt heads seems to wear pretty quick. It is easy to install and remove too. It also keeps my motor straight unlike the one that went from the LU to the trailer. Hope this helps

 

[THOMMO59]

I had the stick type model on my Z6 that had ran from the trailer to the motor and had the V rubber where it goes the the gearcase, standard model supplied with the boat new. I was advised to swap it out due to the shock that is generated up the motor toter during travel for a Swivel-Eze Lock n Stow and it works great. Same as Chris, the rubber bushes chew out mighty fast, I went to the auto store and grabbed a couple of urethane suspension bushes and all sorted.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

No apology needed, your opinion is just as valid as anyone else's I will say that sometimes the physics/science/educated answer and the real world answer don't jive. I lean twords the real world and first hand experiences. One thing is common....you need one:lol: On some boats, the length of "arm" needed on the traditional style to reach the trailer (Rangers are a prime example), tend to snap the arm on a bumpy road. Carlos went through 3 or 4 before he switched to the other kind. Now the "new" style can pop off no matter how much down pressure you put on it. I could go on and on with the pro's and con's so just pick one and go with it!!

 

[Dan J.]

I've used both and have experienced issues with both, but have yet to find one "better" than the other. They are just different solutions to the same problem, having unique pros and cons with each. My personal choice is the V clamp roller style with a cheap, quick modification that eliminates cup wear and any marking to the LU. I take a small piece of scrap boat or bunk carpet and wrap each cupped hand in the V and secure with a zip tie between the cups. The zip tie snugs below the carpeted cups and it will slide on and off without wear marks, holding as secure as before.

 

[scott klaverkamp]

I believe if you look on the Swivel Eze site, they do not refer to this item as a "transom saver", more of a motor stabilizer. Personally, I'll stick with what came with the boat. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Jim B]

Personally i use a lock-n-stow on my boat and have for years.



Real world i can notice a huge difference between the two. TritonGlenn said this a long time ago and in my opinion he could not be more right. Real world test, drive behind a boat being trailered down a bumpy road with a lock-n-stow then drive behind one with a traditional motor bar on the same road and watch the engine. The lock-n-stow will keep that motor solid both side to side and up and down. The traditional bar, not so much.



My opinion is what most folks call a "transom saver" does no more than what i have now, its just a way to stabilize the motor. There is no data that i have ever been able to find that shows using a bar to the trailer is any better or worse whan using something like the lock-n-stow. Until someone comes out with some actual data that shows the forces involved on one ve the other, i will stick to having my motor nice and solid vs moving around.

 

[tightline 700lx]

Thank you all for the input. Like Tox said I think Im just gonna pick one and go with it. Think I'll ask my 2 year old son tonight which on he likes and go with it... :lol:



Funny thing Sawguy, when I bought my boat, it had the V clamp roller style and I didnt like it. But shortly after that I repowered the boat and when I went to pick up the boat after they installed the new optimax, the dealer rep told me that Merc. doesnt recomend you using anything. He said that is what that little tilt lever assy is for.:unsure:

 

[Dan J.]

I wouldn't take any advice from that dealer rep. ever again as he is as wrong as wrong can be. That lever IS NOT a transit support. It is a safety lock and nothing more, never intended to handle the weight and stress of that engine moving under travel. Just some free advice. Also, if your motor is moving left to right with the standard V clamp style toter your boat and/or motor toter is not cinched tight enough to the roller/trailer. My boat engines don't move a hair side to side when trailering. Not that it makes it any better than the Lock-N-Stow style. Good luck!

 

[tightline 700lx]

Yeah I already knew that dealer rep was full of it. Afterall, I have a BS in Electrical Engineering and a Masters in Systems Engineering... :lol: sorry Ron I couldnt resist.



But seriously thats one reason why I like this site so much, we have Bob B. The dealers around here suck big time. I guess Bob is still around right? I havent seen him post in a while.

 

[THOMMO59]

Hey Dan,

I'm guessing you have hydraulic steering? When I had cable steering, the V type was useless to me to hold my motor straight, it was NOT NFB so you could move the engine easily by hand. With Hydraulic steering, the engine stays exactly where it was put and I assume the same would apply with NFB cable steering.

cheers

 

[Ron Himmelreich]

tightline



I am offended....grin



Ron

 

[Dan J.]

Thommo - The V type I refer to has the independent cast aluminum hands with cups. The first thing I do with them is lengthen the hands out of the package (remove and reattach the pivot bolts on each) to give a deeper set to the LU then I carpet over the cups to allow it to smoothly sink deep on the LU and always put the toter on last after ratcheting the boat tightly to the bunks and bow. After travel I reduce all those points of stress for storage. With the boat firmly attached to the trailer and the toter firmly set it becomes one tight package allowing the tires and springs to take the bounces without any hull slap or engine wiggle. It's worked for me on dozens of boats so far. Good luck!

 

[THOMMO59]

My original one was that poxy stock one with the little rubber V at the motor that did bugger all with the original sigle cable poverty pack steering.

 

[scott klaverkamp]

For some strange reason it just seems that when you have 500 pounds clamped to a transom with no support to another object there has to be movement and stress. If the boat is secured tight to the trailer with the tie downs, the motor brace should take care of the motor bouncing. (Should)

 

[THOMMO59]

Hey tightline, what happened to your motor, I just looked at your pics?????

 

[tightline 700lx]

That was my fathers motor... 50hp fours stroke and the voltage regulator caught on fire. Long story short, dealers around hear all said it was not covered under warranty even though there was an open "Fix Campaign" for that regulator. After hearing that I got on here asking for advice and Bob B. called merc for me and set up the work order... All I had to do is take it BACK to the dealer that said they couldnt do it and have them call merc. They then appologized and did their job. :huh: Thats why I said dealers around here Suck.