TRAILER HITCH RECEIVER

[DONAOL]

Does anyone know of a good way to stop the up and down motion in the trailer receiver? I’ve tried plastic wedges and electric tape to try and stop the up and down movement of the tow bar. Do not want to weld it. Thanks

 

[Cyco]

Receiver worn out? Don't feel there should be that much play. Plus with tongue wait.

 

[DONAOL]

Receiver worn out? Don't feel there should be that much play. Plus with tongue wait.

Receiver is brand new. Added video. U-Haul and Curt bars. Thanks guys for the ideas. Will try a hard plastic shim so I can remove the fishing season tow bar in the fall and replace it with my winter tow bar.

 

[DONAOL]

Receiver is brand new. Used several different hitch bars with same results. Mostly very annoying when you back up and hear the clunk.

 

[Robertalan9911]

Put a couple of beads of weld on tow bar where it fits into receiver,now it wont fit into receiver.lightly grind the beads of weld till the tow bar fits into receiver. No more rattling.

 

[olefisherman456]

are you really sure its hitch receiver? have you checked the fit of the hitch ball to the trailer? the trailer cup has an adjustment. if its loose it will cause a clunk. there is a nut on the bottom of the trailer hitch . it should be adjusted til there is no play.

 

[Springfieldguy]

Ok friend, the Chevy factory Receiver on my almost new Colorado clicks or clunks as does yours. Different Note though. It would compliment your sound.
My Insert is also a new U-Haul Insert & Ball which has "clunked" from the start. Rattles lightly over bumps. Never when towing a trailer. I would say there is a +1/16" tolerance between the two pieces. More so when you hold/raise the Insert up on the ball end. Also, the Key-Lock Pin for the Insert also rattles with about a 1/32" clearance. Lived with these issues for some 49 towing years now. Could put a thin cushion of sorts on the Insert top or suggestions by others herein. More a bother, not a worry.
Any (clicking) space between the Ball and inner Hitch Coupler IS an issue.

 

[Starbanker]

This is very common, the receivers all have rounded inside radii and the hitch insert has square corners so they compromise and make the gap bigger. I use strips of polyethlene tape on the inside of each side of the receiver, it holds up well. Just be sure to sand and clean the area before applying the tape. The extra tape you can use for any project that requires a slick surface to rub against such as wooden drawer slides.

 

[DONAOL]

This is very common, the receivers all have rounded inside radii and the hitch insert has square corners so they compromise and make the gap bigger. I use strips of polyethlene tape on the inside of each side of the receiver, it holds up well. Just be sure to sand and clean the area before applying the tape. The extra tape you can use for any project that requires a slick surface to rub against such as wooden drawer slides.

Had tried electric tape pulled tight. Worked for a little bit. Thanks
Put my summer bar back on. Went back to using a hard plastic wedge, but placed it on the back side of the bar.

 

[Ltwrangler]

Check out this part at etrailer.com doesn’t look the greatest but stops the rattle.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-Rattle/Malone/MPG908.html

 

[DONAOL]

Check out this part at etrailer.com doesn’t look the greatest but stops the rattle.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-Rattle/Malone/MPG908.html

Simple compression. Thanks

 

[Andrebass]

My question is Are you hearing the receiver go up and down or are you hearing the surge brake in need of a change out of brake fluid and bleed? or in need of resetting the safety tab inside the surge receiver?
When the surge brake has been working for a few years, there is a build up of air in system and it needs to be bled thoroughly. The safety tab inside the plastic cover sometimes need to be pushed down to reset, if not, that will allow the surge to slide in and out before the brakes engage creating a clunking noise.

 

[DONAOL]

No surge

My question is Are you hearing the receiver go up and down or are you hearing the surge brake in need of a change out of brake fluid and bleed? or in need of resetting the safety tab inside the surge receiver?
When the surge brake has been working for a few years, there is a build up of air in system and it needs to be bled thoroughly. The safety tab inside the plastic cover sometimes need to be pushed down to reset, if not, that will allow the surge to slide in and out before the brakes engage creating a clunking noise. No surge brakes on this trailer.

 

[DodgeBoy]

I had a a millwright at work weld four 1/2" welds along the top and both sides. Then I measured the I.D. of the receiver and milled the hitch the that less .010. Note do not leave the hitch in the receiver or you might not be getting it back out easily do to rust.

 

[DONAOL]

I had a a millwright at work weld four 1/2" welds along the top and both sides. Then I measured the I.D. of the receiver and milled the hitch the that less .010. Note do not leave the hitch in the receiver or you might not be getting it back out easily do to rust.

Thanks. Ended up using a hard plastic shim. Hammer it in as far as it would go. And seems to be working right now. I always take my summer bar off and put in an older hitch bar for the winter months up here due to heavy use of rock salt on the roads. Don’t due much towing in the winter, just like to protect the rear bumper from careless drivers. Especially in parking lots.