Tracker wood deck warranty

[John Glover]

My 92 Tracker Pro 17 front seat pedestal plate began to wobble a bit, and looking under the deck through the forward storage compartment door, I discovered the base plate was held down by only four threaded bolts, not very substantial at all in size (less than 1/4 inch diameter) and the forward right bolt had worn the wood deck so much, it was moving freely. I installed washers and nuts on all four bolts, but in less than a dozen times out using the boat, now even the washers and nuts are not holding. I suspect the wood has been reamed out around that front bolt, and possibly others, allowing water to get into the bolt holes and down into the plywood layers, thus rotting the wood. Question: Has anyone on this board ever had to deal with Tracker for replacement of the wood deck (warranted for life) in part or completely? If so, let me know how Tracker handled the problem.

 

[Steve Rizza]

I hate to say it Jack,but I would say it is too old for them to do anything.

The good news is that it is not very hard to make a new one for it.I made a new one for my 91 pro 17 with a recess for the trolling motor pedal.This summer I am going to make a new one that extends back to the console with some storage compartments in it.

If you have any questions,just ask

 

[John Glover]

Thanks for the reply, Steve, but I'll have to check the paperwork, and the boat and the paperwork are in Alabama and I'm not right now. However, I do remember the warranty to the original owner said, "Lifetime wood deck replacement" so, maybe I can hold them to that. That said, your replacement of the entire deck is probably way beyond my carpentry abilities, but I'm still interested in how you did it. I assume you stripped the carpet off, pried off the old plywood, then moved on. That's what I'd like to know about. How did you fix the new plywood to the boat? Is there a ledge of aluminum around that front deck to screw into? Really appreciate your help.

If I don't do something soon, I'm afraid I might rear back on a fish and fall into the lake!

 

[Steve Rizza]

Basically it is just a sheet of marine plywood cut to size and covered with carpet.There four pieces of aluminum angle that run long ways to support the deck,one on each side and two in the middle.I just drilled new holes and fastened it down with stainless screws.

All you really need is a jigsaw,some new carpet,glue and staples.The hardest part is finding and removing the old rusted screws.You will need to dig the wood out from around some of them and grab them with vice grips and turn them out or snap them off.

Once the deck is off you just trace the old one,cut the new one,glue on the new carpet and reinstall it.Don't even bother trying to find the old screw holes in the aluminum angles,just drill new ones.

It is alot easier than it sounds.



I almost forgot,put the pedistal mount on the new deck before you carpet it.



I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow that will show you what's under there.

 

[Bruce Freeman]

On my 88TXS we repaced the front deck with aluminum harder to work with than wood but it will never rot out again. We also move/made new consoles to get a larger front deck

BF

 

[Marvin S]

Jack , be sure to use stainless steel screws. I believe you can handle this repair if you follow Steves directions and use the old deck as a pattern. I like the recess trolling motor pedal ideal. That would take alot weight off the other leg. What my aluminum boat needs is one of those air suspension seats like they have in big trucks. Good luck



Marvin

 

[Brian Bell2]

The recess for the trolling motor pedal is great I have that on my 750 and love it. Such a small minor change in the deck design pays back HUGE benefits to your lower back and legs. This is the first boat I have owned with this feature and will never own another boat WITHOUT it.

 

[Geo F]

I just got through a complete wood replacement job on my MV16, top wood decks were a piece of cake, even extended my front deck to the console and put storage underneath.

I replaced my entire floor with alumimin...never rot. carpeted and dry fited everything before screwing down.

If you can save the old deck as a template for your newone.

Mine we ood enough to use for the shape, I cut them out of 3/4 treated ply then fiberglassed resined the entire piece to keep from soaking. New carpet , new seats an I was done, fishes great, feels good under foot.

george

 

[Larry Harp]

I'm just thinking out loud here so I don't know if this would work or not. Look into a product called Durarock. It is used by tile setters as an underlayment for tile floors and shower walls. It comes in large sheets and cuts like plywood but would certianly never rot. Just an idea...don't know if it's a good one or not.



Harpo

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Harpo, I think that stuff is REALLY heavy.....But how about that new artifical stuff they use to make home decks out of.....hmmmmmmmm?



TOXIC

 

[Larry Harp]

Tox, is that stuff available in sheets? If it is that could be a good alternative too. Do you think the Durarock is THAT much heavier than marine grade plywood? I would be more worried about it not haveing the structural strength to support itself without an underlayment of it own, which would defeat the purpose.



Harpo

 

[Marvin S]

Harpo, you have the right ideal but, the wrong materiel. Durarock is very heavy. It works great behind ceramic tile in bathrooms and kitchens.



My aluminum boat has a composit deck and floor. Some boat manufacturers now use this materiel. It is some type of plastic. It also cost more and its heavier than plywood but, it will not rot. This stuff is strong because I broke a many of stainless steel woods screws while installing accessories. Jack I don't know where you could buy it. If you were going to keep your boat very long then this materiel would be worth it.



Marvin