Temp. to Winterize

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John Foster2

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At what temp should I really be winterized at? Us Northeast folks like to fish as long as possible. I'm sure the question has been posed before, but I couldn't find anything on it. Thanks.
 
John, If your boat is stored outside, I would winterize when the overnight temps. reach and stay regularly below freezing. My boat is kept in my garage so I don't winterize till around the end of November which in Pa. is time to quit anyway.
 
I'm in the DC area, and I haven't winterized by my PT 17 in about 5 years. I figured that if I manage to get it out at least once a month it will be ok. So far I've had no problems with the motor. Do you folks agree that this is a reasonble plan? I do make sure that I let the water drain from the motor well, before tilting it up.

 
I would also change the lower unit lube to make sure that no water was in it. If you have a bad seal and water is in the lower unit and it freezes, you've got trouble.
 
Then I guess I did right today, Put stabilizer to tank ran engine on hose until fuel in filter changed color,Sprayed fogging oil through carbs untill engine stalled, pulled plugs fogged cylnders,turned over engine buy hand a few turns. Drained and refilled lower unit. set engnine as low as it would go and covered it up.

BF
 
Bob, what about efi motors? Any special recommandations? I have a 200 EFI......



 
Thanks for the tip Bob!



The weather here in lower ny has definitly turned for the worst...It's gotten too damn cold too damn fast! But I'm holding out for a few weeks... Maybe as soon as 2 until I do something...



 
Bob thanks for your great explaination about "winterizing." Just one more question. I have heard that if a boat is going to be unused for as little as three weeks it should be "fogged." Is there a "rule of thumb" on time limit?



Bear
 
I just winterized this weekend.. You guys tell me what I did right/wrong, cause I just kinda winged it.. =P



I filled the tank (Added 10 gal to pre-existing 5 gal) and added 18 +/- oz's of stabilizer (1 oz treats 1 gal, so 3oz's extra).. Mixed the oil a little heavy (40:1) on the 10 I put in, existing 5 was mixed at 48:1... I figure that averages around 43:1 overall.. Absolutely no logic involved in the decision to mix heavy, may have been the wrong thing to do... Sounded good at the time for some reason, though... :



Next, I let it run on the flushers for probably 15 minutes... When it started smoking more, I figured it got into the heavier premix/stabilized fuel.. Took the hood off and sprayed the carburator w/ fogging oil until it smoked A FRICKIN LOT and tried to die.. I was really surprised at how much fogging oil it took to get it to that point.. I figured it'd be right away, but I sprayed and sprayed before it finally choked up.. Normal?? Anyway, when it finally started choking up, I shut it off..



Then, I pulled the spark plugs and sprayed each cylinder w/ fogging oil for about 10 seconds.. I replaced the plugs/wires, pulled the kill switch and cranked it 3-4 times, each in 5-6 second bursts.. I figured that would work it into the rings good enough. Replaced the kill switch and removed the key, and put the hood back on..



Changed the lower unit oil.. A few drops of water came out, and the oil was milky. I didn't worry with changing seals now, I figure I'll have those & the impeller done in early spring. I just let it drain, replaced it and put the screws back in. BTW, I let it drain and filled the case back up by sticking the tube in the drainhole and filling until it ran out the top hole. Correct way??



Also pulled both the trolling and starting batteries, greased the wheel bearings, then put the cover back on..



Am I winterized???

 
Sounds like you read a manual first!!..LOL Good job!!

Make sure you leave the motor trimmed all the way down too...to keep water from collecting in the exhaust hub.

Might even be a good idea to put a large heavy duty garbage bag over the lower unit and duct tape it good.....it'll keep critters and water from collecting in your hub!! You put the spark plugs back in didn't you?? You'll want to replace them in the spring AFTER you start it up for the 1st time and blow all the fogging oil out....you'll foul those plugs probably,....after you run it for a few minutesin the spring...replace the plugs with new ones and you'll be good to go. Good job man!!

Mac
 
Thanks Mac! :) BTW, I did put the plugs back in and reconnected the wires.. I actually read somewhere where it said NOT to reconnect the plug wires, but I don't recall reading why.. I figured I'd go ahead and do it so I didn't forget come spring.. Hehehehee! Oh, and I always trim down after I get the boat home.. I never know when those weekly trips might turn into biweekly or (Heaven forbid) MONTHLY trips, so I just go ahead and trim down just in case. My dad leaves his up all summer, then lowers it for storage in the winter. Matter of fact, that's his idea of 'winterizing' entirely! LOL! I don't even think he adds stabil, but it fires right up every spring.. Go figure..



Anyway, I planned on replacing the plugs come spring, as I noticed they had a little crud on them when I took them out. I might well have replaced them BEFORE starting the first time had you not said something, so THANKS! I guess that probably would have been about $15 down the tubes..



Also, I think I'll use your garbage bag/gearcase idea too.. Sounds like a good one to me! Probably couldn't hurt, anyway.. :)
 
Thanks for the info Bob. I think your HO is right on.



Bear
 
Bob - When you mention "older outboards that run a 50:1" does my 2000 Merc 40hp classic 2 cylinder fit in that mold? Had the boat for 2 1/2 years and every Oct/Nov have Tracker do the annual maintenance and that's it. Have not used Stabil yet, boat sits for most 30 days at a shot all winter so it sounds like i'm OK just keeping the outboard tilted down when stored?
 
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