stress cracks

[bobby threadgill]

I have ran across what I think is a great deal , but the hull on a Pro Team 165 2000 Model has a couple of stress cracks on the bottom of the hull underneath the driver and passenger seats. Is this a major problem, is it reoccuring and is it a big issue in the tracker boats
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[Steve Rizza]

It would have to be a GREAT deal for me to take it. Having the cracks welded up isn't such a big deal,,but the prep work is. The console ,sides, and then floor would need to be removed, so the flammable flotation foam can be taken out before welding.



When my hull needed welding, it only cost about $30 to have it done, but it was alot of work to get it ready.



BTW...the cracked hull on mine was due to my own actions.





Steve

 

[TOMMY RICH]

If it's aluminum...I'd steer clear.

Been there...Done it and don't want to do it again.

Just a cent's worth.

 

[bobby threadgill]

other than the cracks the boat has been wll maintained and garage kept , looks new and everything else has been checked from electrical to compression check on a 40hp electric tlit $2500 Thanks Steve

 

[bobby threadgill]

Thanks Tee

 

[TrepMan]

when you say 'stress cracks'? can you describe them more, that term is usualy used for fiberglass gelcoat cracks. are the cracks long? allowing water into the hull/floatation? ever been or tried to be fixed?



Price is good, but if the expense like Steve said to take the console, floor and floatation out is major may be more of a pain then good deal. If I remember correctly from Steve and others the floatation material is FLAMABLE so you can't just weld it from the outside without removing the material inside the hull.



If they are very small cracks, you might get away with something like JBWeld, if they don't/won't spread.

 

[Steve Rizza]

I can't remember whether the foam is flammable or not. :wacko: I believe it is, but either way needs to be removed to keep from contaninating the weld. Aluminum is very fickle when it comes to welding.



I tried JB weld on mine to get through the summer untill I could tear it down over winter. Didn't have much luck due to the size and location of the crack. It just cracked to JB weld due to the flexing of the hull.



Tried some Perma-Tex gasket maker from the local auto parts store, and it held up strong all year.



Can you get pictures of the cracks ???

 

[bobby threadgill]

I don't have possesion of the boat as of know but each crach is about 3 inches long and run from one rivet to the other .As of know there is only 2 cracks Thanks Guys

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Especially if it's riveted.

I had this problem with my 94' and was only putting a band aid on a major bleeding artery.

The foam IS highly flammable and has to be removed and that in itself can be a major headache.

Here's another kicker for ya'....

If it's already got cracks then, more than likely the foam is saturated and you'll wind up removing more foam than you think.

Once the foam is waterlogged for any length of time...it's almost impossible to dry out and impossible to weld.

Like I said, "been there"

 

[Troy Murphy]

If the cracks are under the seats and not the rear deck then there is no foam, however if it's under the rear deck the foam is thick and will burn. I once welded the keel of a 96 175 and it was fine until I reached the livewell and we had to add water:lol:

look at the location of the cracks, also alum. stick welding is better if water is behind the metal. Tig welding will pull the water to it.

Lots of luck,

Troy

 

[Bruce Freeman]

Step away from that boat unless you want to dump a lot of money into getting it fixed right,

Like Steve R said everything has to come out of that area to be welded. It's cracked where the sringer runs across on both ends. Yes it can be done but you are better off looking for another boat.



Just my .02

BF

 

[bobby threadgill]

Thanks for the info guys

 

[mike chip]

i had stress cracks all over the place on my 1996 pt17, you have to remove the interior to weld it, OR turn the boat upside down because you cant get a good weld on aluminum unless it is below you,(hope that makes sense) it is so soft and will just fall off and never stick to the boat, at least i could not find someone that would do it that way, they all said it was a waste of time and would not hold. i used clear silicone and it held up a year, but after the 5th or 6 th crack i sold it, but not before i installed a float switch to keep her as dry as possible inside.

mike c