Splitting power on a lowrance unit

[Bill Hamilton]

Hopefully an easy question. I sold both ny boats (a Nitro 896 and a Bennington Pontoon) and decided to purchase a Hurricane Deck Boat fitted for fishing. Best of both worlds, I hope.



Repost with different title!I have two deluxe fishing chairs up front, recirculating live well digital removable troller with a Lowrance LMS520C in the dash and a 68C on the front deck. Both have GPS. The front deck is powered throgh the deck connection inside but the connection to the unit itaelf is tied into a single connector to the unit. This makes removing the troller a real problrm with the routing of the transducer. The troller removes easily but I am stuck with all these wires on the front deck. Is there a simple way to attach the power wire on the deck with a removable connection and just leave the transducer connected? My thought was to splice a waterproof in-line fuse holder and just disconnect at that point when I want to remove the troller. Any other thoughts. All thoughts welcomed



Bill

 

[TritonGlenn]

Bill,

I've read this a few times to fully understand what you are trying to do. You didn't say so, but I'm assuming your transducer is mounted to the trolling motor, and since the connection to the 68C is a combo power/transducer connector, you simply want to add some type of quick disconnect system to the power line so that you can remove the trolling motor/transducer and leave only the power wire in your boat.



Hopefully, I'm following you right on this. If not, please let me know.



What you suggested will work - putting an in-line fuse holder and disconnecting at that point when you want to remove your trolling motor. The only other thing I can think of would be to put a bullet or spade type quick-disconnect on your power wires. HOWEVER - I have to warn you ahead of time - constant removal / reconnection of power wires (especially with the quick disconnects) will cause you to go through a quantity of quick-disconnects and broken wires on the power cable. The wires are really thin (as you probably already know), and the stress of connecting / disconnecting constantly will wear on the connection at a MUCH faster rate than if you had them hard wired.



One other solution - and this might be hard to find - find some two-prong connector with one side that will fit into the deck fitting. More than likely, the wires on such a connector will be much heavier gauge than the Lowrance wires. Disconnect all power, and solder the connections between the Lowrance unit and the heavier gauge two-prong connector. Insulate the connections well - I like liquid electrical tape or even better - 3M brand rubber electrical tape (sticks only to itself - kind of "melts together" when you wrap it tight). Then you are only messing with the bigger harness connectors, vice constantly touching those thin wires from the Lowrance unit.



Hope this helps.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bill Hamilton]

Glenn as always you ht it on the nail. I too was wooried about the plugging/unplugging aspectand thought of how the troller power is wired with the male/femail connector. Even like the 12V battery carger harness plug. Don't know if they makew something for a single stand poer wire. Will check with my loca, sevice center and gert their thoughts and will advise. I can't be the first one to identify this as a problem.



As always, thanks Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

Ill rumage through my electronics stockpile and see if I have something that will work for you.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Mini]

I did this with my first bass boat. I had the transducer wires on a quick disconnect weather pak connector, the trolling motor (MinnKota PowerDrive) on a quick disconnect plate. It worked flawlessly for removal of the trolling motor and if wired correctly no interference on the screen.



I have done a couple more installs like this without a weather pack connector (I just bought a connector at Radio Shack) and all have worked.



http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103250



http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103293



I used the above connector for the transducer and temp probe on the last one I did. Just make sure you solder your conncetions and add strain relief to the wires and you should be fine.