Sloppy Steering

[Junya Patterson]

Need some help here.....I have a 1994 190 DC with a 150 XR6.....the steering is pretty sloppy. There is about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of slop in the steering wheel, is there any adjustment that can be done to remove the slop?



Thanks in advance!!!

 

[Bruce Freeman]

What kind of steering system is it?

BF

 

[Junya Patterson]

I think its a 2 cable system, its what came with it originally.

 

[Junya Patterson]

Any help or advice out there???

 

[Mebassn]

Well,a few things could be the culprit. The steering box, the cables have stretched or there is loose hardware at the motor.

First thing i'd do would be to have someone move the wheel back and forth in the slop area. If you see movement at the motor bolts, then i'd tighten them or replace them with new hardware. There are some adjustments you can make at the steering tube in the back just under the motor cowling. I have a 99 150xr6, it has a main cable tube with a large nut (2) on the cable end of the tube. There also is a dogbone link between both cables at the terminal end. They should not be alligned perfectly. They should be offset a little. Third, ii'd check the bolt under the lower couwling. This bolt is the only link to turn the motor. If this is loose it will have slop.

The key to troubleshooting this problem is to see what moves and what doesn't when the wheel is moved in the slop area.



Find that out first then we can go further.



Dont drive the boat until you get it figured out



Tight Lines

MeBassn

 

[Junya Patterson]

Thanks MeBassn.......I will give that a try!!!



Nitro 190 DC

 

[Dan J.]

I'd have to agree with MeBassn, start either at the helm or the cable rack and work the other way, tightening/inspecting as you go. The cables will stretch a tad, but for major slop, you've probably got something loosened up at one end or the other and needing immediate attention. I strongly suggest fixing it before running it again. Good luck!

 

[Dan J.]

Should be pretty hassle free, except for re-snaking the cable. Depending on your rigging and if it's encumbered somewhere, hidden and hung up with zip-tyes or the like. Simple hand tools, patience and a little flexibility of your hands in some areas should be all it takes. I suggest loosening both ends and taping the new cable to the old and pulling one out to re-install the next with the same motion. If it's not hung, that's the way I've done it. If it hangs, stop, free the resistance and then pull a little more. Try not to force anything or you'll pull the new cable from the old and then you'll really need to be flexible. (LOL!) Good luck!

 

[Junya Patterson]

Thats about what it looked like to me, but that seemed to simple, LOL!!! If you don't mind I do have a couple more quesitons for you Dan-



1) Should I stay with the 2 cable system or go with the 1 cable system?

2) Do these cabling kits come complete with all the hardware to hook up under the dash and onto the motor?

3) Is there a preference on pulling the cable from a certain end (console or engine) when re-snaking?



Your help is appreciated!!!

 

[Junya Patterson]

 

[Mebassn]

Nitro,

I replaced the whole system on my boat last year, i went with the No Feed Back dual cable setup. I think it's part number is NFB SS152, you can go to the teleflex website and look it up. There you will find it under the Dual Pro rack NFB steering (i actually bought the cables and dual pro rack from the internet, cabelas also sells them).

I highly recommend this setup, it was easy to install, and the cables are fairly easy to run (depending on your boat). And the boat drives totally different (no need to white knuckle it anymore)



MeBassn

 

[Dan J.]

Nitro 190 DC -

1) A twin cable system is the minimum I'd suggest for a V6. The NFB Me Bassn mentioned or a true hydraulic are even better choices, although much more expensive than replacing a broken cable.

2) From what I've seen, replacement cables are just that, a cable. You should be able use the existing hardware when replacing the cable.

3) Either end is do-able, but the transom end will keep you from the funky positioning needed at the helm, although you may need to work from both ends at times.



Good luck!!