Replacing an Actuator

[Jon Jackoviak]

Is it difficult to replace an actuator on a trailer? It is leaking oil at a rate of about a full reservoir about every week. And that is just sitting in the garage! I had my boat down to BPS in Pontiac to get it fixed under warranty and apparently they did not fix it. With the price of gas and the distance to get there, I was thinking about putting a new one on. Any opinions?



Jon

 

[Jim B]

Do you have the ufp stule one of the tie down brand i see on the new boats? if you have the ufp its not a super hard job, i have never had a tie down one apart so i cant tell you how hard it is. I have had my ufp one apart a few times to replace various components like the shock. I would take it apart and find out where it is leaking first, you can most likley replace just that part instead of the whole unit. The two placed i have seen mine leak were from the master itself and the little tube that goes from the anti reverse valve back into the master. If you go to ufp's website they have instructions on how to take it apart.

 

[Bryan McDonough]

The hardest part it detaching the hose from the actuator. I was amazed how they even got it in there.

 

[Michael Snow]

The newer ones are supposed to have a rubber flex hose, but my 99 had a metal brake line only.



On the back of the tongue (where it hits the frame of the trailer at the very back of the tongue piece), do you have a rubber or just metal brake line? If it's metal, you'll need to disconnect the brake line from the frame (the little clips that hold them into place). I had to go all the way back to the wheel. You need this so that you'll have enough length to pull the actuator out.



Get some split ring pliers and remove the split rings on both of the pins. Spray the pins down with WD-40. I had to use an 8 pound hammer to get mine to budge. Pull the pins out. Grab hold of the actuator AND the emergency brake cable and pull out as one unit, being careful not to damage the brake hose going through the back of the tongue. You will probably have to bend it gently to get it to feed through the hole. Be careful not to kink or pinch the brake line. Once you have the actuator out, you'll need to unscrew the brake line. Replace the parts that need replacing (I replaced the whole assy minus the tongue part itself -- the master cyl, shock absorber, lockout solenoid). Reattach the brake line and grease the two wheels. Make sure the pin goes through the shock absorber.



There are full instructions on ufp.net or ufpnet.com (I forget). BPS charged about $150 for the parts, everyone else wanted $225 and up.

 

[Jon Jackoviak]

I realized that it was probably under warranty, so I called UFP and they are covering it. So I just have to take it to the local marine dealer and they will fix it. Should have thought of that before writing my post.



Jon