Problem Returns

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Well,



I thought I had the problem with my 225 efi all figured out. I was getting oil warning light and buzzer but the in-hull reservoir was full. Somebody here directed me over to the BBC Merc. board for some help from Sherm. He advised me to fill the hull tank , pull the cowl, pull the cap on the "motor" tank (was only 1/2 full) and let it fill all the way to the top (By running the motor with the cap off). So I did and for the last two trips, no light or buzzer. Yesterday I got the old light and buzzer routine again. If I let the warning go off twice, shut the motor down and re-start, it will not go off again. Sooooooo, I get home pull the cowl again and the motor tank had dropped about a 1/4 inch (the first time I checked it it was 1/2 empty). Now I'm no dunce, but I can't figure this out. In order for oil to get from the hull tank to the motor tank, the system has to be pressurized (pushing the oil) rather than vaccuum operated (sucking the oil). How do I know that you ask.....Well, if my peanut brain is on the right track, if removing the cap on the motor reservoir causes it to fill, the system has to be under pressure. If it were vaccuum, removing the cap would not allow the vaccuum to "pull" the oil to the tank reservoir. Right?? If so, I've checked all of the lines for possible pressure loss, checked all of the caps and connections and finally, there is no oil leak (tiny bit in the bottom of the cowl that I consider normal) so why is the motor tank draining oil BACK to the reservoir (I assume). Sorry for the long post but this is getting me PO'ed!! I can usually figure this stuff out. Any ideas? Oh yeah, while I had the cowl off looking around, I came across an unconnected wire with a male lead (opposite side of engine from the oil reservoir). Looked closer and found an un connected wire of the same color (red) with the female connector. Now in my limited thinking, I figure Merc. didn't leave wires laying around so I connected them up. Maybe that was the problem......Whaddya think????



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[Dan J.]

Check the purge valve coming from the bottom of the saddle tank. (Kinda looks like a black hose tee with a brass fitting in the midst that has one nipple free.) I've seen them plug or go bad causing the problem you describe. If not, you may have a defective tank. Just a thought.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Dan,



How do you "Check" it? I was wondering what that did. My best guess was some sort of "bleeder" valve. How would I know if it was bad?



TOXIC

 

[Dan J.]

A visual inspection will tell you a lot. See if crud is packed on it. When disconnected, it should rattle like a PCV valve. It can be messy to check, so you may want the dealer to do it. It wouldn't hurt to have the tank checked, also. A run on the DDT in the shop can usually find the culprit. You just have to run it for a long time while checking the level on the saddle tank. Good luck!

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Dan,



Thanks for the help. The valve is clean as a whistle, I noticed that when I pulled the cowl yesterday. It has been to the dealer (twice) and they claim they can't figure it out. I might just replace the valve. If a no-go then replace the saddle tank. Gee, I learnt a new word today!!



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[David Jordan]

I've got lots of wires not connected inside my motor and it's a new install. Some are for Temp gauges, trim sendors ect. Not all will be hooked up

 

[Carlos Hathcock III]

Any luck on this one Tox?

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Not yet Carlos, I dumped another gallon of oil in the hull reservoir and pulled the cowl , hooked up the garden hose and re filled the saddle tank (I also po'ed the neighbors, I'm sure). It will get the test tomorrow. I just don't want to pull the cowl again, it's a heavy sob and I don't want to take the chance and scratch it. I was hoping Bob Bourquet would chime in on this.



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