Yes, I had a few growing pains right at the beginning. Before I even dropped the boat in the water after purchasing it brand new I was having sort of the same issue you were while fiddling in garage with it. It would randomly give me five beeps and then the head would constantly flash three times and the motor would become completely unresponsive. I would also do full factory reset and full calibration procedure to get control back but after sitting for a bit it would just return. Speaking with other experienced ghost owners, I learned that the power supplied to these units must be clean with solid voltage. All of the owners and Lowrance tech support immediately told me to ditch the plug at the bow, have batteries load tested and re-test ghost. I was going to take the boat to a service center, but after calling them and talking with their tech, I learned they would hook the ghost up to their power supply to diagnose and test to exclude a boat problem. I knew then I had to cover my bases and make sure I did not have a boat power issue or I would look like a fool. Being an electronics engineer, I took it upon myself to go through the whole trolling motor circuit. I knew my batteries were good as they were tested for load and brand new lithium's. I changed the plug at the front of the boat to a hardwired connection and also changed the circuit breaker at the batteries to a higher quality component. I also went through and checked all connections and crimps to make sure there was no issue there and found a few questionable connections. After completing this, the troller has been absolutely fantastic since. Talking to a marine electronics guy, he explained to me that although these are 24 volt or 36 volt systems, the voltage is bucked down to 12 volts at the control board for controls. This means that if you are even losing a small amount of input voltage in your connection, the 12 volts will not be a solid 12 at the PC board. This what was causing my motor to freak out and give strange errors all the time because the voltage was dipping too low for the control board to even know what to do with. I'm not sure if it was the hardwired connection at the bow of the boat that fixed the issue, or replacing the circuit breaker BPS installed, or repairing some questionable crimps that eventually fixed it, but one of them did. I feel it was the breaker or the plug, the crimps I repaired on the circuit were just my OCD of doing wiring for a living and not so much an issue(crimps and heat shrink not up to my standard). Hope this helps.
Hardwired serviceable Connection Terminals. This is what I replaced the plug at bow with.
Connection Terminals
Circuit Breaker I replaced the one BPS installed with. 60a with a manual trip option.
Circuit Breaker
I also got a split cable boot adapter I modified to plug the hole the removed plug left, but allow wires to pass for hardwire connection
Cable Boot
Also make sure you are on latest software(
Software version 1.3.04)...lots of bug fixes in that one.
Lowrance Updates