I hate wheel bearings!

[Michael Snow]

Let me start by asking if anyone can possibly cross reference this here rear seal (wheel). It is off a 1999 Nitro 911 CDC trailer. The trailer is red. It's a tandem axle, brakes on rear axle.



The remains of the seal have two numbers, written in the smallest possible font available.



32372

233-168-sp2



Now, for the fun questions...



Is there supposed to be a gap between the rear bearing race and the narrower-diameter part? I'm about 1/8" off and I've beaten that new race within an inch of its life. Which reminds me... how exactly are you supposed to beat a race into place and not damage the race?

 

[Michael Snow]

I'm making progress.. I have the db-42 wheel assembly.



http://www.ufpnet.com/products/disc_brakes/disc_brakes_txt.htm

 

[BRIAN FREE]

Mike, I'm not sure about how far you have put your race in, but you install them with a bearing race driver.I work in an alignment shop and we pack bearings all the time.Try going to a trailer or boat shop and match up your seal. Usually there are only a few common sizes. I will take your numbers to work tomorrow and look them up for you.I will get back to you tomorrow night. Brian

 

[Charlie Nethaway]

Mike dont hit the race or barring w/hammer use a block of wood, Check NH Northern over on campbell west of 75 they might have the barrings you need

 

[JEFF WHITE]

the races only go in so far then they hit a ridge and they cant go no further.use a brass punch to put them in and be sure it is in straight.the seal fits in tight,so be sure that goes in straight right from the start.dont booger the seal edge up.



the seal can be crossed over to a timkin number.the seal should be driven in with a piece of wood bigger than the seal,and start it easy and straight,hit it in till it stops.



i think the seals off my trailer are possibly the same #'s.ill have to look down in the garage for the timkin # off it.the seals are cheap,buy 2 extras so if you do booger one up,you dont have to run to town again.repack them with synthetic grease,filling the bearing and the hub cavity with grease.

 

[Michael Snow]

Thanks guys. I did some soul (and internet) searching last night. UFP (www.ufpnet.com) seems to make every part of the braking/hub system on the Nitro trailer. They also gave some cross-reference numbers for the seal. I'm going to call NAPA and see what they have. I have the bearings repacked, just need the seal and I SHOULD be back in business.



By the way, I have a TRAILER buddy system, not a bearing buddy. The zerk fitting goes into the spindle itself and grease comes out the back of the axle (where the inner bearing rides). I have no concerns now that I need to take the other three wheels apart. I was concerned because there was water in this one wheel, but it was only water that had leaked past the rubber "seal" over the bearing cap. Nothing actually got into the bearing area. Of course, I knocked the inner race out, trying to get the seal out, so I replace it and the bearing (which I also apparantly damaged).

 

[fatrap]

Mike



I feel your pain. I have the same system in my trailer and the dealer told be to just shoot grease into them and leave em alone. Ofcourse this was after I screwed them up by tearing them apart to pack.

Someday I'll learn to ask before I attempt to fix something.

fatrap

 

[Michael Snow]

So, how did you screw them up? I'm trying to learn from your mistake

 

[Paul Jones]

Make sure you buy the bearing and seals from a marine type place. I bought the right size from a trailer place and they did not hold pressure i.e leaked when filled with grease via the zerk fitting on the front of the spindle. I went the West marine and took the old seal for size. Installed and no leak. Apparently the marine seals have a double lip and seal better considering the internal pressure from the grease is higher than would be expected from a trailer that was not intended to be backed into the water.



The price may be a little higher than a bearing supply house but at least you know the parts are proper for the application.

 

[fatrap]

I banged the rear seal and had to replace it. Got in a hurry then dinged the seat for the replacement seal trying to pound it in with a hammer and punch. Then couldn't get it to go in staight because of the burr I made on the wheel. so bent the next seal trying to force it in with a block of wood and hammer. Finally took it to school and used the metal shop press and seating tool to seat it properly. Then kept my hands off the thing.

fatrap

 

[JEFF WHITE]

believe it or not,the marine seals and the regular seals are the same thing.i compared them to each other,and they are identical.ive used auto seals for the past 5 yrs,and have not had any problems.if they are blowing out then there is too much pressure in the hub.

 

[Michael Snow]

Magna, but, you're using the "double-lipped" seals. A CHEAP single-lipped seal wouldn't give you as good of protection.