Check your bunk boards....

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Kenny Guess

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OK, here is a new one on me. My 2004 PT175/trailer bunk board on one side totally rotted out (not knowing until I saw a bend in it last time out) and the bolt holding it came through and scratched/sliced the hell out of my hull about 2 feet. As the boat was being loaded it would hit the bolt and scrape it. Now I have to emory cloth the area and of course change the bunks. I can only assume that the 2x4's are not pressure treated....the other one seems ok but I will change both with 'yellow wood' along with indoor/outdoor carpet. Has anyone else had this happen to them? kenny
 
Bunks go quick and usually are a regular "look see" for me. Bunk carpet is more than indoor-outdoor, you might want to check that. If you want longer life, use a marine varnish on the boards and make sure you also seal the holes you drill for the bolts. Also, don't wrap your bunks all the way around so that they can "drain" and not hold water on the boards. There is also a composite board that some use ($$$) and things like glide sticks but I don't use them.



TOXIC
 
Pressure treated 2x4's work really well. Also, do what Tox suggests and don't bolt carpet all the way around, just over the tops, ends and sides so that water can drain off the bottom. Bass Pro Shops sells precut bunk carpet in various shades and colors pretty cheap. Its WAY more durable than indoor/outdoor carpet. With the 2x4's, stainless (or rust-proof) staples, a staple gun and the carpet, your set to replace the bunks!
 
Had my last un replaced board float off this past weekend. Guess what i'm doing this weekend.
 
I may be the only ignorant one here as Home Depot is not my weekend hangout, but even treated 2x4s will rot, won't they?
 
Pressure treated lumber should last atleast twenty years , But has a tendency to shrink as it dries out the first couple of years. There are now some 2x4 composites on the market that might be worthwhile to look into for bunk boards.



Mark
 
I may be the only ignorant one here as Home Depot is not my weekend hangout, but even treated 2x4s will rot, won't they?



Yes, any wood will rot given enough time. The point is that treated wood rots a lot more slowly than untreated! I'm not sure about the 20 years that Gross notes, but it should be quite a few years, especially compared to the untreated stuff.
 
Kenny - Like everyone else I had to replace my 2000 Tracker bunks (one screw rotted out after 2 years), and did it with treated lumber and followed John Foster's EXCELLENT Grab Bag Article. So go to the side menu under Resources and Grab Bag for Trailer.



I did the ones on my 1999 Nitro a few months ago following the same process, took me about 1 hour at the house to make them and less then 10 mins at the ramp to replace them. Only thing I always forget is I need to take the rotted ones HOME!!! LOL Make sure you have a place to put them (on top of my van for me) or the boat!!
 
Buy some composite and never worry about rot again. Installs just like the real thing, and can be carpeted over and stapled. My bunk boards are still good after 6 years (knock on wood...hehe), but I'll be going the composite route if and when I do replace them.
 
Just use pressure treated and do not carpet the bottoms. Use a good sealer and you'll be good to go for a long time.

I thought some one mentioned awhile back about not using composite for some reason...:huh:
 
I think part of the problem is using a lag screw. I think the pressure from loading and unloading causes the hole to wear and let the lags eventually loosen. When I replaced mine last year I countersunk a carriage bolt in the treated bunk, re carpeted, then bolted them back on using lock washers and 2 nuts.





Gene

 
I'm glad Kenny posted this because I NEVER remember to check the trailer bunks. I'm pretty good at remembering almost everything else but not that. Trep's right in that John Foster has an excellent HowTo in the Grab Bag section. Now that'll be the forst thing I check this year.



Uncle Billy
 
My backseater put the composite boards on his trailer [got these from a boat source, not Home Depot]. When the boat is off the trailer there is an awful lot of flex in the boats [8-foot length]; does wet noodle create an image. Yet, when the boat slides onto the bunks, the bunks hug the bottom of the boat quite nicely.
 
My backseater put the composite boards on his trailer [got these from a boat source, not Home Depot]. When the boat is off the trailer there is an awful lot of flex in the boats [8-foot length]; does wet noodle create an image. Yet, when the boat slides onto the bunks, the bunks hug the bottom of the boat quite nicely.



Hey Marty... Is there a name for the composite boards your friend used or that other's have mentioned?



Or how about this from Bass Pro Shop?



Uncle Billy
http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=77595&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults
 
I'll ask him. His boards were composite and he carpeted them to boot.
 
Kenny - Do it at the lake, its the easiest way! Launch her, tie her off to a dock or beach her and make sure she is tied to a tree or something, pull trailer out, swap bunks and you are done!
 
Not really done Trep! Might as well fish while you're there!! :lol:
 
The ultimate bunk boards look like the real deal and the price is fair. Since my boards are 8'7" would you go with the 8' ones or 9' and cut off the excess. I assume you can cut them ???

Uncle Billy- You sound like me....stay on top of things but this one got by me....I was angry at myself for not seeing it sooner......
 
I don't know for sure about cutting them. You can put staples in them so I'm sure they can be cut. I would go with the longer ones and cut to the right size. My backseater was adamant in reminding me that they are very slick. He carpeted them to avoid having to fight a boat bound and determined to slide off.
 
Key Point!!



He carpeted them to avoid having to fight a boat bound and determined to slide off.





They are VERY slick. I dunno about you but my rig will not float load. I "have" to drive it on. Always, always, always, hook your bow strap before you pull out. I have seen many a boat on the concrete due to these and the glide sticks. And....be careful if you powerload your your rig will be in the bed of your truck or through your back window before you know it.



TOXIC
 
If you have an aluminum boat DO NOT USE TREATED LUMBER for bunks... Even carpeted they will eat the hull in a matter of days...



The new treatment is like acid to aluminum...



The ultimate bunkboards are a very good alternative... Other than the hassle of making up the boards and gluing/stapling the carpet.... replacing them is a "few minutes" job. I use pine 2X4/6... just have to find a lumberr yard that carries them...



I like the suggestion of countersinking carriage bolts "dabbed" with a waterproof glue/construction adhesive... Has to be much better than the lag bolts that do ALWAYS become loose.
 
Greg, What is this about treated wood eating the hull of aluminum? Never heard of this and most of us here on the gulf coast have used treated with a. boats. What is your source? thanks, kenny
 
My source is the "guy" and his brochure at Home Depot. The "new", whatever, chemical is very corrosive to aluminum. This came about as I went to Home Depot to get new lag screws to attached the four new bunk boards I had made up... new wood and carpet...all finished and ready to install on the trailer. I went to the "desk" to ask about using plated or hot dipped galvanized lag screws. The guy asked about the "application" and when I responded he got out this "pamphlet", about 6 pages, from Thompson's about the new treated wood. "DO NOT USE IN DIRECT CONTACT WITH ALUMINUM" and some other metals were also listed. The Lumber Manager (I believe) said that they had had a delivery where the material was in direct contact with the a;uminum deck of the trailer and it had left a "deep" crater in several places.



Needless to say... I made up new bunk boards out of plain yellow pine (hard to find) and the once made from treated lumber are sitting behind my garage in the "salvage pile".





Here is a quote from a web site http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00127.asp



"Perhaps the most important point to keep in mind relating to copper-based wood treatments and galvanic corrosion is to avoid aluminum flashings altogether. Aluminum corrodes quickly in the presence of high copper concentrations."



All of the new treatments use high concentrations of copper... enough said.



When wet it will "leech" through the carpeting.


http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00127.asp
 
Hey Greg, Thanks for that reply. Guess what I just finished about 2 beers ago, my bunk boards with treated 2x4's........so I guess I will have to disgard them as you did. SOB, I was so proud of the job too....oh well, learn something new everyday I guess. That is some good info, thanks again for being 'heads up' on that issue. I'll drink the next beer for you my friend. kenny
 
Well Kenny... while you can't send a beer to me through the mail... If you will just send your American Express Card.... me and the Home Depot Guy will have a few on your dime and I promise.... we'll mail that card right back...:lol:



Honest... right back...:wacko::rolleyes::D
 
Aluminum building products may be placed in direct contact with YellaWood
 
I sawe that Osmose wood was less corrosive in DRY applications... My hull wasn't worth taking any chances with, was my opinion...



I watch my mailbox for that American Express card...:lol:
 
Greg, A. Express card is in the mail.....Oh, and I changed the bunks today using untreated pine. Will order those ultimate bunks this spring and do it one more time for the last time. I sent that info to another local fishing site (rodnreel.com) and several of the members were glad to get it also. Can't say enough about this site for getting good information. kenny
 
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