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BJ Laster

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I havent had a chance to take the batts out of my boat and take them to be tested yet. My parents are in arkansas today with my sister and my truck is in the shop.



Anyway, i put the batterys on a single bank charger to just to see what would happen. The first battery (the one that the fuse was blown this summer) the charger showed 10 DC amps and it stayed there and its been there since i put the charger on earlier today. I took it off about an hour ago and put it on the second battery. It did teh same thing. It showed 10 DC Amps, i just went out and checked and it is now down to about 6 or 7.



Is the first battery taking a charge at all?



BJ
 
It dosent sound like it is. Do you have a volt meter? if yhou do take a voltage reading on that battery to see what the state of charge is. That link i put in your last posat will give you what voltages mean what. Then put the charger on again for a while, take it off and let the batteery rest for an hour or so and take another readiongh with the volt meter. That should tell you if the battery is charging or not if its not at 100% charge.



From what it sounds like you have a bad battery, The symptoms you describe has happened to every interstate battery i have ever owned and also the everstarts and duralasts ive had in the past. What happened to all of the mwas one or more dead cells and they would never charge no matter how long i left them on a charger.
 
I think its going to be a bad battery. I dont think i have a volt meter.



I have already had to replace my cranking battery about 4 or 5 months ago. I would charge it up and it would work ok for maybe two or three trips then it would be dead.



I want to get a set of Trojan batteries. How much did yours run? I'd like to get the bigger ones like you have.



I'll probably end up going to walmart or Sams and get two Everstarts. They have a decent return policy.



When i replace the batts will that help my charger problem? When I put them on the charger it shows red and green instead of just red.



BJ
 
My trojans were 110 each the group 27 size would cost about 100 each. They do cost a little more but they are worth EVERY penny in my opinion. Im going into my third season on mine. When i put the boat away in the fall they were just as strong as new. When i had the interstates or everstarts etc i was swapping them oput at least yearly sometimes more. When you add the pro-rate charges they charge when you swap them i actually spent more for a set form walmart then i did for the trojans for less performance and life. I feel much better spending a little more up front to get aq better product that will last longer.



I think you may want to stick with the group 27 size. The stock charger in the 882 may not be strong enough to charge the 31's if you run them down far.
 
BJ -



You could have one or more cells that are "almost" dead but still have a volt meter read the full 13.2 volts. (I don't remember the exact voltage but it's something like 13.2.)



Voltage is important..... BUT.....

The available amperage is even more important!



For example..... You could hook 8 AAA batteries in series and get a 12 volt reading on your meter..... But those 8 AAA batteries sure wouldn't power your trolling motor for long!



Ps-s-st..... A little hint..... Load test time!





And I'm sorry to contradict Jim again..... But..... "The stock battery charger in an 882" is plenty strong enough to charge Group 31 batteries. Depending on the amp rating of the charger and the degree of discharge, it may just take a little longer than a charger with a higher amp rating.
 
Me! taking a static voltage reading is a fine way to check the state of charge. just as reading gravity with a hydromoter is a fine way to test each cell. Its obvious you dont agree with that but all the major deep cycle battery makers reccomend those tesats in thier maint books. I think they know a little about testing batteries.



Btw when it comes to chargers sure a 5 amp will charge group 31 batteries just not fast at all. Keep in mind BJ fishes tournaments, my post was in that light. On two day affairs or after a pracice day before a tournament you need the ability to charge a battery fully in a short amount of time. With a group 31 the 5 amp just wont cut it period and in my opinion its pushing it with 27's. For example my last boat i had 31 delco's and a 5 amp guest charger. If i ran the batteries down after a windy day i could take them 12 hours + to fully recover where a 10 amp would do them in 6 or so. Sometimes you dont have the luxury of charging then for 12 hours+ and in torunament fishing full batteries are a must. Ask Sue D what charger she would suggest for a torurnement angler and id bet she would say a 10 or 15 amp one.
 
"Taking a static voltage reading is a fine way to check the state of charge". Wrong.



It tells you only that a given number of cells are capable of taking a charge but not the quantity of charge.







"Reading gravity with a hydromoter is a fine way to test each cell." Wrong.



It will tell you how much of the acid has been absorbed by the plates in the cell. This will change drastically between fully charged and discharged. It will not tell you if plates are dislodged, shorted, etc.







There is only one way to get a true reading of the capabilities of a battery: Load testing.
 
Me! Have you ever read the maint handbooks from battery makers such as Trojan, Deka or Us Battery? None of them ever suggest load testing on deep cycle batteries. What they say is what i go by, i would think they know. They make batteries, i dont. Im sure they know more about batteries then you or i ever will.
 
I should stay out of this,but I can't to help BJ learn. You can not compare lead acid batteries to trojans or any of the other mat style batteries, there like oil and water. Jim B and Stacie are both right on there points and if you take both of there ideas and add them together you get real close. Specific gravity is a great way to check battery condition, but will not tell you if you have a battery that is shorted out (plates touching, this includes corosion or debries in the bottom of the battery) Yes one bad battery will suck the life out of the other, it can also fool or kill your charger. A 5 amp charger per bank is OK for a part time boater but not enough for a multiday (new word) tournament. Look at it this way if your battery has 150 mins reseve it will take 30 hours to recharge if it is discharged.

BF
 
Jim, I don't get any pleasure from arguing with you.

(Especially when you're wrong! :) )



How about we just let it drop here.....



And BJ's homework for this weekend can be to research the testing of batteries and then just keep the information for his own use - NOT report it back here to us! LOL!!



me!
 
Me! its pretty obvious you do. Once again when it comes to batteries i will use the guides provided to me by the people who actually make the batteries. If that makes me wrong then so be it i really dont care.



Bruce just an FYI the trojan scs series is a wet cell lead acid battery. I think the do make a agm batteries but thats not what i own or most people are buying.
 
OK, Jim..... If you won't drop it with a smile.....



From Interstate Batteries:



"Load TestThis test is a 15-second discharge of the battery at a 1/2 cold cranking amp level. A more accurate testing method than a voltmeter or a hydrometer, the load test is often required to determine whether a battery is good or bad. It is used by professional technicians."



http://www.ibsa.com/www_2001/content/faqs/tech_talk/maintenance/faq_tech_maint.htm







From your reference, US Battery:



"Periodic battery testing is an important preventative maintenance procedure. Hydrometer readings of each cell (fully charged) gives an indication of balance and true charge level. Imbalance could mean the need for equalizing, is often a sign of improper charging or a bad cell. Voltage checks (open circuit, charged and discharged) can locate a bad battery or weak battery. Load testing will pick out a bad battery when other methods fail. A weak battery will cause premature failure of companion batteries."



http://www.usbattery.com/care.htm







From ETA Engineering:



"Periodic battery testing is an important preventative maintenance procedure. Measure battery voltage using a digital voltmeter. Imbalance across a bank of batteries could mean the need for equalizing. It can also signal improper charging or a bad cell. Voltage checks (open circuit, charged and discharged) can locate a bad battery or weak battery. Load testing will pick out a bad battery when other methods fail. A weak battery will cause premature failure of companion batteries."



http://www.etaengineering.com/batteries/battmaint.shtml







I've said enough

I'm dropping it right here.



me



 
Ok ME! this is my last post on this subject. From the info you posted it appears we are both wrong and right at the same time. Let me give my comments on each of your points.



From Interstate Batteries:



"Load TestThis test is a 15-second discharge of the battery at a 1/2 cold cranking amp level. A more accurate testing method than a voltmeter or a hydrometer, the load test is often required to determine whether a battery is good or bad. It is used by professional technicians."



Ok what does cold cranking amps have to do with a deep cycle battery????? Nothing as far as i can see unless you plan to crank a motor with it.



From your reference, US Battery:



"Periodic battery testing is an important preventative maintenance procedure. Hydrometer readings of each cell (fully charged) gives an indication of balance and true charge level. Imbalance could mean the need for equalizing, is often a sign of improper charging or a bad cell. Voltage checks (open circuit, charged and discharged) can locate a bad battery or weak battery. Load testing will pick out a bad battery when other methods fail. A weak battery will cause premature failure of companion batteries."



note they say to use a hydrometer and a voltmeter as a way to test for a bad battery ad a first test. Id not that the same thing I told BJ to do????





From ETA Engineering:



"Periodic battery testing is an important preventative maintenance procedure. Measure battery voltage using a digital voltmeter. Imbalance across a bank of batteries could mean the need for equalizing. It can also signal improper charging or a bad cell. Voltage checks (open circuit, charged and discharged) can locate a bad battery or weak battery. Load testing will pick out a bad battery when other methods fail. A weak battery will cause premature failure of companion batteries."



Same as above the same voltage and gravity tests are mentioned here as a way to find a bad battery.



So dont you think he should do the tests he can at home before he brings his batteries somewhere and most likley has to pay to have them tested? I do.



Once again all i can go by is what im told and i was told by a battery maker not to load test deep cycle batteries. Would i load test a car battery? Sure would thats why i own a load tester. If that makes me misinformed then so be it but since two of the refrences you posted make mention of the gravity and voltage tests as ways to spot a bad battery( two i mentioned to BJ to try to help him btw) then maybe im not as misinformed as you seem to think?



Im done

Have a nice Day
 
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