882 steering

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robert turk

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i just purchased a 2000 nitro 882 with a 150 that is extremely hard to steer. i noticed that it has no trim tab on the engine. is it supposed to and what is the difference between a trim tab and a tourque tab
 
Mine doesnot have a trim tab either, i think the prop wouldhit it if there was one there. the big difference between a trim tab and torque tab is where they are mounted. A torque tab goes down on the skeg and a trim tab us up under the cavitation plate.



My 882 was also very hard to steer at wot and full trim but part of that was the lack of a nfb system and all the right hand torque you constantly had to fight. i put a nfb helm in mine and its a much nicer boat to drive now.
 
Wolf

nfb stands for no feedback. Its a steering helm that has clitches in it to help battle the right hand torque the prop generates.
 
Is the boat hard to steer just at WOT or is it your cables that are frozen up?
 
Mine was the same way and i tihnk it was due to all the prop torque. It was really tough to hang onto sometimes. The no feedback helm made a big difference.
 
Question?? The boat does not have Seastar Steering??? HMMM

I thought all the 2000 + models came standard. The mrec motors once they get to 125-135hp (I think) do not have a trim tab, that is only on the smaller motors. As for the torque I hade a 115 elpto that torqued bad and you had to drive threw it kinda like chine walk, I diferent reworked prop helped as well.



Mark on the Left Coast
 
I can't imagine an engine without a trim tab. I have the tab adjusted on my 115 and I can let go of the steering wheel at WOT and go straight. I sort of assumed they all had the trim tab.
 
I have a 2000 882 with a EFI 150 and had to replace the cables last week.... I have the dual rack system.... I have no trouble steering at any speed......
 
Hmmmm. Have to look into the trim tab aftermarket. Sometimes, my boat will attempt to rip the wheel out of my hands.



Tex
 
FWIW - I don't know of a single person to regret the switch to a NFB system, if budget allows.



TT - As Pat G. mentioned, an inexpensive fix is the high speed torque tab riveted or welded to the skeg. (For $25 and 10 min. of time you'll have a slight left counter-torque at speed to compensate a right hand prop torque.) We've used it on a number of different rigs for just what's been described. It was almost the only thing to do before NFB/hydraulic systems.
 
I for sure dont regert the no feedback deal. The helm cost about 100 bucks and took me all of 20 min to install. Its bar none the second best thing i have ever done to my boat. #1 would be the prop blueprinting.
 
You can find them online all over the place. You should also be able to get one at any marine dealer. I got my locally. The part number you want is sh5230p. I uncluded a link to an online store that has it too. If you do a google search on that part number you will find lots of places.



It is quite easy to install. There are 4 bolts that hold the helm the the rack and 3 that hold the helm into the boat. All you have to do is remove the wheel, remove the helm, remove the rack from the helm and reinstall the new helm reversing the way it came apart. It was very easy to do and works like a charm.
http://www.go2marine.com/g2m/action/ViewSkuList/categoryId/11676/
 
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