2023 Tracker Pro Guide V-16 90hp
- Thread starter Mikael88fedon
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Mike67
Member
Hi Mikael, I have the same model except I have the WT. Couple things you may already know, the battery for the trolling motor needs to be turned on it's side to remove. Not sure if you're going to set-up for fishing but I actually purchased a LifePO4 100AH mini and it fits without having to turn it on it's side. Fabricated a new battery tray that is removable should I have the need to place a full battery. Also moved the battery over to the side which give you quite a bit of room on the opposite side.
I had the dealer install a 9" Lowrance HD Live and recently added a 9" FS Elite to the front. I networked the 2 together so I can see all waypoints on both and look at both transducers at the same time of one at a time. Room to add another transducer if needed on the HDS Live. I'm leading to something here which is the power for the front sonar. It is already there. You just need to unscrew the front panel, 4 screws on top and 4 on the bottom lip, wires are right inside. I attached the front power supply to a 12v accessory plug and added an accessory plug to the front sonar. Give you more options for the power up front such as lights, phone charger, what ever you want to plug into it. I just used a step bit to make the appropriate sized hole for the socket I picked up off Amazon. Almost forgot, if you're running wires from the console to the front like I did for the ethernet cable, you can run it down the driver side rod locker. Look inside the rod locker, it goes all the way to the front. Just fish it up there with a rod fish, the type you use in walls. Under the driver console, remove the small storage compartment (3 screws) and there will be and access panel cover in carpet. One screw and it comes off, apparently this is the access for the livewell pump. You can fish the wire through this panel and place it in the upper right corner and then place the panel back on. The wire can go anywhere you want in the console after that,
Another option I just completed was upgrading the 42lb trolling motor. Nope, didn't buy a new one, purchased a new shaft and 55lb motor with a built in transducer. Can be done for about $300 or as little as $100-$120. The $100-120 depends upon if you want the transducer or not and if you want to go through the hassle of removing the motor nose cone and shaft (plenty of YouTube videos showing such). I elected to go the more expensive, easier, route as there would be less chance of mistakes. If you go my route you will need the new lower unit, shaft, collar and cord. I also added I-Pilot which was a bit pricey at about a little over $500. The trolling motor upgrades came in at around $800. Considering a new trolling motor with all these features runs a little over $1500, I still saved money. Maybe you don't want any of it at all or just a couple. I could have recouped some of the price and just purchased another trolling motor. Just doesn't seem like there is much of a market for the Powerdrive 42lb. Found many "used" for around $300 and would have been more expensive that route. The 42lb is appropriate for lakes, the 55lb was chosen because it has the built in transducer.
I recently added a very small battery power light in the glove box and under the hatches. Purchased 5 for about $12 on Amazon. They work great at night, enough light to see what you want and they're very small so they stay out of the way. I have a couple flood lights that fit the 12v accessory socket I picked up on Amazon. They have clips so you can place them anywhere with the 10 foot cord they come with.
If you store rods in the rod lockers, rod socks are a must so you don't tangle the lines.
I did add Mercury Live View Mobile for a bit over $200. Fill blown NMEA Live View will run close to $800 and even more as you would need a compatible fish finder. Live View mobile you view on your phone. I purchased a phone holder on Amazon that fits in the cupholder and has a cupholder so you won't lose that function.
Also added 4 Rail Blaza rod holders in the Versa Track system. The front sonar is mounted with a Scotty rod mount and 1.5" ball that connect into a Ram mount.
I'm in the process of adding a couple net mesh holders on the sides of the rod lockers to store the dock lines and bumpers. Tried some velcro style type with some carpet adhesive. Was a fail so now I will need to drill a couple holes in the sides of the rod lockers. Sides are aluminum so they should hold well.
I purchased the Tracker bimini top when I bought the boat. Dowco make all the covers and I purchased the front windscreen panels for the bimini as well as the walkthrough. As you have the SC model, you would only need any brand bimini if you have the family along. I do some striper river fishing in the fall and have these items to keep me a bit warmer.
I'm sure there are other things I have done and have just forgot. I;m writing so much down as it is difficult to find this information anywhere. I had to just figure it out and wanted to share.
I had the dealer install a 9" Lowrance HD Live and recently added a 9" FS Elite to the front. I networked the 2 together so I can see all waypoints on both and look at both transducers at the same time of one at a time. Room to add another transducer if needed on the HDS Live. I'm leading to something here which is the power for the front sonar. It is already there. You just need to unscrew the front panel, 4 screws on top and 4 on the bottom lip, wires are right inside. I attached the front power supply to a 12v accessory plug and added an accessory plug to the front sonar. Give you more options for the power up front such as lights, phone charger, what ever you want to plug into it. I just used a step bit to make the appropriate sized hole for the socket I picked up off Amazon. Almost forgot, if you're running wires from the console to the front like I did for the ethernet cable, you can run it down the driver side rod locker. Look inside the rod locker, it goes all the way to the front. Just fish it up there with a rod fish, the type you use in walls. Under the driver console, remove the small storage compartment (3 screws) and there will be and access panel cover in carpet. One screw and it comes off, apparently this is the access for the livewell pump. You can fish the wire through this panel and place it in the upper right corner and then place the panel back on. The wire can go anywhere you want in the console after that,
Another option I just completed was upgrading the 42lb trolling motor. Nope, didn't buy a new one, purchased a new shaft and 55lb motor with a built in transducer. Can be done for about $300 or as little as $100-$120. The $100-120 depends upon if you want the transducer or not and if you want to go through the hassle of removing the motor nose cone and shaft (plenty of YouTube videos showing such). I elected to go the more expensive, easier, route as there would be less chance of mistakes. If you go my route you will need the new lower unit, shaft, collar and cord. I also added I-Pilot which was a bit pricey at about a little over $500. The trolling motor upgrades came in at around $800. Considering a new trolling motor with all these features runs a little over $1500, I still saved money. Maybe you don't want any of it at all or just a couple. I could have recouped some of the price and just purchased another trolling motor. Just doesn't seem like there is much of a market for the Powerdrive 42lb. Found many "used" for around $300 and would have been more expensive that route. The 42lb is appropriate for lakes, the 55lb was chosen because it has the built in transducer.
I recently added a very small battery power light in the glove box and under the hatches. Purchased 5 for about $12 on Amazon. They work great at night, enough light to see what you want and they're very small so they stay out of the way. I have a couple flood lights that fit the 12v accessory socket I picked up on Amazon. They have clips so you can place them anywhere with the 10 foot cord they come with.
If you store rods in the rod lockers, rod socks are a must so you don't tangle the lines.
I did add Mercury Live View Mobile for a bit over $200. Fill blown NMEA Live View will run close to $800 and even more as you would need a compatible fish finder. Live View mobile you view on your phone. I purchased a phone holder on Amazon that fits in the cupholder and has a cupholder so you won't lose that function.
Also added 4 Rail Blaza rod holders in the Versa Track system. The front sonar is mounted with a Scotty rod mount and 1.5" ball that connect into a Ram mount.
I'm in the process of adding a couple net mesh holders on the sides of the rod lockers to store the dock lines and bumpers. Tried some velcro style type with some carpet adhesive. Was a fail so now I will need to drill a couple holes in the sides of the rod lockers. Sides are aluminum so they should hold well.
I purchased the Tracker bimini top when I bought the boat. Dowco make all the covers and I purchased the front windscreen panels for the bimini as well as the walkthrough. As you have the SC model, you would only need any brand bimini if you have the family along. I do some striper river fishing in the fall and have these items to keep me a bit warmer.
I'm sure there are other things I have done and have just forgot. I;m writing so much down as it is difficult to find this information anywhere. I had to just figure it out and wanted to share.
Mikael88fedon
Member
Awesome. Thanks for all this very useful information.
I did add I-Pilot (my favorite thing so far)
Also added a 93sv Garmin with maps, vessel view, similar rod holders, converted the live well to hold a bunch of 3700 boxes. Flood/spot lights on the front using the trolling plugs.
Adding this weekend is the emergency boarding steps for the transom motor mounts and a 4 blade spitfire prop.
Loving being able to have 4 adults and be such a compact boat and everyone has their fishing zone on the boat
I know I’ll be replacing the trolling battery in the future so your notes will be helpful
Mike67
Member
That trolling motor battery and placement was so bothersome to me and was the first thing I changed out. It did give me the room I wanted for the 3700, PDF's and such.
Question on your e-ladder, sounds like you are installing the motor mount style correct? If so, let me know how that works out for you as I was thinking about it just as an additional safety measure. If I need to board from the water, I've just been using the old step on the bottom motor plate and heave up. Sure would be easier with some type of ladder.
Also, let me know how the new 4 blade works out. You typically gain hole-shot, but lose top-end speed due to the extra drag of the additional blade. If it works out, I may look into it.
It sure is nice to share what we've done to these boats as I'm always looking for the next project. Thanks for sharing what you've done to yours.
Question on your e-ladder, sounds like you are installing the motor mount style correct? If so, let me know how that works out for you as I was thinking about it just as an additional safety measure. If I need to board from the water, I've just been using the old step on the bottom motor plate and heave up. Sure would be easier with some type of ladder.
Also, let me know how the new 4 blade works out. You typically gain hole-shot, but lose top-end speed due to the extra drag of the additional blade. If it works out, I may look into it.
It sure is nice to share what we've done to these boats as I'm always looking for the next project. Thanks for sharing what you've done to yours.
Mikael88fedon
Member
Got it installed today. It was easy and fits perfectly. I have the Amazon link below. It came with an extra washer on top to adjust angle but I didn’t need it because I wanted to be sure I had enough threads
https://a.co/d/6dxDE2v
Yhea I’m hoping the Spitfire helps on holeshot, I never cruise above 30 so if it can help me get there with 4 adults on board quickly it will be a win
Mike67
Member
Looks awesome! Just ordered one from your link.
Let me know how the 4 blade works out. I had one on my previous boat more for safety issues out on the ocean. Needed that torque when the water was not cooperating.
Thanks for sharing!
Let me know how the 4 blade works out. I had one on my previous boat more for safety issues out on the ocean. Needed that torque when the water was not cooperating.
Thanks for sharing!
Mikael88fedon
Member
No problem. When you receive it check how sharp the edges are. My were very sharp so I used some sandpaper and cleaned all the edges so I wouldn’t cut myself when I used the ladder
Mikael88fedon
Member
I tried the 4 blade Spitfire 13.4x15p and was impressed with holeshot but disappointed everywhere else. Top rpm was around 5100 and low 30’s for top speed. Attached was the vessel view from the trip from one outing so not 100%.
Note the boat had 4 adults on it and all our gear.
Putting the original 13.75x15p Black max on it to see how it does with the vessel view day but I remember cruising around 28mph at a much lower rpm
Mike what’s your top speed on yours with the Blackman prop?
Note the boat had 4 adults on it and all our gear.
Putting the original 13.75x15p Black max on it to see how it does with the vessel view day but I remember cruising around 28mph at a much lower rpm
Mike what’s your top speed on yours with the Blackman prop?
