Jimmy - Until your hull is free of the surface (riding on the flat, level pad) it will "lean" to the right for the reasons explained previously. I encourage you to drive a buddy or two's rig(s) to see what I mean. (Regardless of mfr., just as long as it's a bass boat hull.) When your hull breaks free from the surface and you are on the pad, you should "level out" powered up near or at WOT.
If you'll step back and visually inspect your outboard mounted position on the transom, you'll notice your engine is not hung exactly perpendicular to the transom line. You will note the powerhead slightly port and the skeg slightly stbd. (looking at the rear, top of engine slightly left-pass. side.) This rigging installation has been standard for decades to assist with countering the RH hook effects of the motor.
Regardless of hull, when decelerating from WOT and/or coming to a stop, you'll need to trim down in conjunction with pulling back on the throttle. (A very significant reason why the throttle incorporates the trim switch into the handle.) This allows a controlled stop through power applied prop torque. Staying trimmed up and pulling back on the throttle, drops the hull off pad, allowing the inertia of the hull weight to carry through the water off pad with the hull biting deeper into the weighted, torque affected RH side. That can make things squirrelly, to say the least, and usually results in a wave coming at you over the transom.
If the above is all being applied and you still have the problem you've stated (regardless of 115 or 135HP), the only other thing I can recomend is running a straight edge across the pad area and look for any gaps/imperfections in the slightest amount. An irregular pad surface or "hook" in the hull can manifest an untold number of weird handling issues. I don't want you to think I'm minimalizing your concerns, but so far, your descriptions sound like normal bass boat characteristics. I firmly agree that HP should have no impact on this "problem", but more HP is good HP! Good luck!
