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Bob Bourget2
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Yes. First off, it's a whole different animal. Proper "cocktails" for winterizing these motors is paramount. Oil cylinders, drain, re-fill gear lube, grease all zerks, corrosion guard, cooling systam check are in order. You MUST let the motor run for at least 15 minutes for the stabilizers and fuel system components to be "winterized" properly. If you are storing with a full tank, be sure it is a 91+ octane and treated properly. Fuel filter changes are recommended as well. 
Bob Bourget2
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There's a double-edged sword when it comes to "storing". The question remains: "to fill or not to fill".
The preferred method is to store empty. BUT, and here's the but.....can one really get all the fuel out? No, especially with built-in fuel tanks. You'd have to remove the sender and literally siphon every last drop out? Why so anal you ask? Because if ANY is left over, and with the now great area of "air" in the tank the gallon that remains will quickly phase separate {even treated}, and cause running issues down the road. Now the motor. You'd have to drain the fuel system including the VST, lines, injector rail, etc. Not easy. Bigger problem? Think of this analogy......throw a piece of raw metal into the ocean. It will actually survive LONGER than when you take it out and expose it to the air, where rusting ensues immediately.
The second method is to store it full. We store over 1000 boats here, and I ask all of my customers to have as fresh a fuel supply as possible, with it being topped off with 91+ octane. Treated properly, it has proven to be good fuel {at least here in the Northeast} as long as it is used with the advent of Spring time. Any longer than 7 or 8 months and it becomes a crap-shoot. As a percentage, I probably see a fuel-storage issue of about 1-2 percent. Full tanks are less apt to phase separate {due to the lack of available space in the tank}, are less explosive , and the motor internals are bathed with the treated fuels. Fuel pumps, injectors, any "metal" are immersed and protected. I discuss this very issue with Merc every year.
One of the most important components of winterization is to MAKE SURE you allow the treated fuel time to circulate throughout the motor. 5 minutes will not do it. The smaller the motor the longer it takes. I recommend to put the treatment in at your last outing {you should be using it ALL the time anyway}. We see an average of 15 minutes at idle.
EDIT: The sole reason for all this "stuff" is due to E-10 fuel. The older MTBE fuels were much less of a problem.
The preferred method is to store empty. BUT, and here's the but.....can one really get all the fuel out? No, especially with built-in fuel tanks. You'd have to remove the sender and literally siphon every last drop out? Why so anal you ask? Because if ANY is left over, and with the now great area of "air" in the tank the gallon that remains will quickly phase separate {even treated}, and cause running issues down the road. Now the motor. You'd have to drain the fuel system including the VST, lines, injector rail, etc. Not easy. Bigger problem? Think of this analogy......throw a piece of raw metal into the ocean. It will actually survive LONGER than when you take it out and expose it to the air, where rusting ensues immediately.
The second method is to store it full. We store over 1000 boats here, and I ask all of my customers to have as fresh a fuel supply as possible, with it being topped off with 91+ octane. Treated properly, it has proven to be good fuel {at least here in the Northeast} as long as it is used with the advent of Spring time. Any longer than 7 or 8 months and it becomes a crap-shoot. As a percentage, I probably see a fuel-storage issue of about 1-2 percent. Full tanks are less apt to phase separate {due to the lack of available space in the tank}, are less explosive , and the motor internals are bathed with the treated fuels. Fuel pumps, injectors, any "metal" are immersed and protected. I discuss this very issue with Merc every year.
One of the most important components of winterization is to MAKE SURE you allow the treated fuel time to circulate throughout the motor. 5 minutes will not do it. The smaller the motor the longer it takes. I recommend to put the treatment in at your last outing {you should be using it ALL the time anyway}. We see an average of 15 minutes at idle.
EDIT: The sole reason for all this "stuff" is due to E-10 fuel. The older MTBE fuels were much less of a problem.
Scott Hammer TOXIC
Well-Known Member
And that's why folks, I fished all winter!!:lol::lol: You haven't lived until you feel what a frozen forehead is!! It's like a brain freeze from the outside in!!:lol: Thanks to Mr Hamilton, I have caught bass on a buzzbait in December during a blizzard!!:wacko::lol:
TOXIC
It's like a brain freeze from the outside in!!:lol: Thanks to Mr Hamilton, I have caught bass on a buzzbait in December during a blizzard!!:wacko::lol:TOXIC
Jim B
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Dennis,
All the winterizing stuff should be pretty well outlined in the manual. Back when i had a carb'd motor i always winterized it myself but not any more. I have had my 175 Opti three years now and i let Bob's shop do the winterize job on it. There is a lit more to it and while i know i can do the work its nice to know its done right by a pro. My suggestion would be to see your dealer and let them do it right.
Tox,
I would love to fish all year too but i haven't figures out a way to cut a big enough hole in the ice to get my boat in. :lol: I know all about the brain freeze thing, running close to 70 on a 36deg morn will do that to you. That happens in Oct up in NH where i fish a lot.
All the winterizing stuff should be pretty well outlined in the manual. Back when i had a carb'd motor i always winterized it myself but not any more. I have had my 175 Opti three years now and i let Bob's shop do the winterize job on it. There is a lit more to it and while i know i can do the work its nice to know its done right by a pro. My suggestion would be to see your dealer and let them do it right.
Tox,
I would love to fish all year too but i haven't figures out a way to cut a big enough hole in the ice to get my boat in. :lol: I know all about the brain freeze thing, running close to 70 on a 36deg morn will do that to you. That happens in Oct up in NH where i fish a lot.
Scott Hammer TOXIC
Well-Known Member
HA!! Ours do freeze up but the "Hot" side of Lake Anna is always fishable, it is the discharge side of a nuke plant. 3,000 acres of bliss in the winter months.:lol: I understand that some have no choice. Just rubbin it in. You have to cut a hole in your water:lol:
TOXIC
TOXIC
Jimmy Easterling
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Move to South Carolina and fish year round, our winters are milder than your springs.
Dan J.
Well-Known Member
Yep. If it gets too cold here I'll run a few hours south and fish. Vice versa, when it gets too hot I'll run a few hours north and fish. The Southeast is a great area for fishermen.
