Trolling Motor upgrade

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Teri C.

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The Reata comes with a very small mount and a Minn Kota Powerdrive 55lb 12V trolling motor. After I figured out how to even hook it up (LOL), I hate it. There is no cord to pull up to drop it in the water, it's a latch you pull and slide the motor forward and it drops in. This one is obviously meant for the skier and occasional bobber fisherman. I tried to see if the boat was wired for 24v and I didn't see any additional battery cables. My other Nitro just had them hanging there if you wanted to use them.



So, if at some point I upgrade to 24v, how much thrust am I going to need to move this along. I put a 70lb Maxxum on the 750 I had and it was great. This boat weighs more and is about a foot longer.



BPS had a 65lb Minn Kota Edge on sale for $399 (reg. $499). With points and a coupon, I could save about another $50. Would this one be enough? He said they would continue that price after the sale until they are gone. There were 4 left on Sunday. Thoughts?
 
The 55 is certainly inconvenient, but I never found the up and down to be a pain. For a run and gun type that spends little time at one spot, it would certainly be a pain. I think you answered your own question --- your new boat is heavier than your old which needed a 70 [minimum for a 750 in my mind]. Go for the 80 [24v] or 101 [36v]; your budget makes that call.
 
I'm with Marty on this one. The PD are favorites among walleye fishermen because of the use for real trolling... But, for Bass type fishing the PD would be a pain in the butt.
 
Don't forget the higher gunnels catching a good bit more wind than your last ride. The more TM, the better. You can always twist the knob towards the turtle, but once you hit the bunny, that's all your gonna get. ;):D



For your size and weight hull, the 24V 80lb. range should be a minimum considered. Don't forget a 50" shaft either.
 
I tried to see if the boat was wired for 24v and I didn't see any additional battery cables.



:huh:



The cables you have currently should suffice. (Should be 8 guage min. from Flippen.) You'll make your 24V connection at the batteries and use a 24V receptacle and new plug from the motor. Make sense? :)
 
Dan, what you just said rang a bell. The wire should be "thick" enough but I will check. I remember trying to figure out the right way to hook up the last one. You wire it a certain way if you don't have 2 sets of positive and negative cables, right? I would just have to wire a new plug in the front and maybe up the fuse. I did that on my last one. Am I on the right track? Meaning I really only need one set of wires running from front to back, one positive cable, one negative cable, one short cables to connect the 2 batteries together. ???
 
Teri, That is right. Batt 1 pos terminal to tm. Batt 2 neg terminal to tm. The jumper is batt 1 neg to batt pos.



BF
 
Teri - You got it! You'll need one pos. and one neg. cable up to the panel on the bow. There you'll install a 24V receptacle and matching plug for wiring your 24V TM. As Bruce pointed out, it takes just a simple jumper cable to make the 24V connection at the batt.'s. Any auto parts store will have double swedge ended ground leads hanging by the batteries. (Short thick black wire with silver metal bolt hole pieces crimped at the ends.) Get the length you want, short as you can get by with, and crank down on your wingnuts after some liberal application of dielectric gel to the contact points. (Or a little grease to hold back corrosion.) The only time you'll want that extra lead on the bow is for a 12/24V TM system. You don't want that for your rig for sure. Good luck!
 
Teri I have a 70# Powerdrive on my Tundra. I hate the g@#$% thing. I always end up with the power cord wrapped up around the shaft like a yo yo string. I really don't know what to do yet. A friend of mine's brother has the same boat(only an 06) and you want the most power you can afford the thing is a tank to move into the wind. He fishes alot with a bimini up and he's moving up to the 105# thrust.

fatrap
 

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