Trailer Guide On's?

[Mike Wagner]

Have any of you installed trailer guide on's on a bass boat trailer? I'm considering this since the lakes I fish don't allow power loading, and the bunks have to be almost entirely submerged (just about 1" out) in order to easily hand winch the boat in. With any kind of wind, the back of the boat sways off the trailer. I'm wondering if the guide on's would keep the boat from swaying off the trailer so it stays properly centered on the bunks. Thanks,



Mike

 

[Wayne P.]

Yes, the guides make loading easier with or without power loading.

It is totally ignorant that Tracker does not have functional boat guides on all of their trailers.

 

[Richard Hodge2]

I made some from a ladder support and a piece of PVC pipe that work fine and much cheaper.

 

[TritonGlenn]

It is totally ignorant that Tracker does not have functional boat guides on all of their trailers.

I disagree wholeheartedly. Please do not misunderstand me - I'm not poking fun at anyone who needs them. Some boats are harder to load than others, and some boat ramps make having something like guide-on's a handy thing to have. But everyone doesn't need them. I haven't had use for guide-on's on my current boat trailer, and I've used that boat in many bodies of water, covering a bunch of states. Why should I have to pay for something that I don't need? Just because someone else might need them? That makes no sense. By that reasoning, every person should have a shallow water anchor, or a 36 volt trolling motor, or a hydraulic jackplate, or some other item that isn't necessary for every boater out there.



I hope I'm making sense here. Just because you consider it a necessity, others might consider it a waste of money. Why should they have to pay extra because of your need? There are many companies that make aftermarket guide-on's. If you need them, I'd suggest looking into the ones that have the rolling PVC pipe on a heavy duty support.



One issue to consider before spending any money on them - does your boat narrow in the rear? I've seen boats with slightly wider center sections than transom areas. If your guides have to be further out to compensate for the fat middle section passing through them, the very back of the boat may still not be perfectly aligned on the bunks when you are fully cranked up on the trailer because they won't be touching the guides anymore.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Wayne P.]

Glen, what boat/trailer combo do you have that is so trouble free?

 

[TritonGlenn]

I currently drive a 2005 Triton TR-20X on a Marine Master trailer. Previously, I drove a 1997 Cajun Pro 178 with a Trailboss trailer. Prior to that, I had a 1995 Cajun Pro 171 with a Trailboss trailer. And even prior to that, I had a 1994 Cajun Pro 171 with a Trailboss trailer. I've driven and trailered Rangers, Nitros, Skeeters, Javelins, Bullets, and a bunch of other boat brands - including aluminum rigs and even a Gheenoe. With the exception of the Gheenoe, none of them ever needed boat guides. The only boats I've ever trailered that did benefit from having them were big saltwater boats and a pontoon. Now, there have been times on the Chickahominy or James rivers, when the water was rushing in our out so fast that I thought it might be neat to have them, but I've noticed people with them getting their boats all jacked up because the minute their bow was passed the guides, the rushing water was pushing their stern away too fast. They literally got tangled up in their own boat guides, making them more of a hindrance than a help. I just practiced and eventually learned how to load a boat on tidal waters. I was power loading though. I wouldn't have wanted to try to load it manually without power loading. The boat would have been everywhere, and again - I don't think the guides would have helped much. It might have been easier to drive onto the trailer until the boat stopped, and then winch it the rest of the way, but I'd be too temped to power load and get off the ramp, especially in a large tournament.



The only one of my own boats I ever had problems loading onto a trailer was the '94, trying to load it manually on a "no outboard" lake. They would let you troll around on electric motors with the outboard tilted up high enough that the prop was exposed. You couldn't start it though. The ramp was VERY steep, so the back end just dropped down quickly. With the wind blowing, you almost had to get into the water to keep it on the trailer as your partner pulled up. What I ended up doing in that case was to tie a rope to the aft cleat on the windward side. I'd go on the side of the ramp and hold the rope to keep the transom lined up on the trailer as my fishing partner pulled up slowly.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Wayne P.]

Most of the combos you mentioned are self centering and have more than two bunks that are on different levels. The fenders are somewhat guide-ons (carpet covered on the inside).

The two bunk Tracker trailers are the ones that need alignment help for just the reason the first poster mentioned.

 

[Jim in VA]

Mike - Richard has the right idea. Instead of spending $70 to $100 for commercial guide-on's, you can make your own. Its pretty eash and will cost you less than half the price of commercial versions. Another lister (coincidentally named Mike!) did the same.



Basically, go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and pick up an extension ladder brace. Cut it in half and then use two square U-bolts and plates (two come with the ladder brace!) to mount it on top of one of the rear cross braces. Then top with 2" PVC cut to the right height (about level with the top of the outboard. You can cap those off with PVC caps or if you want to get fancy, lights like the ones in this link (http://www.basspro.com/C-E--Smith-LED-Replacement-Light-for-Post-Guide-on-Boat-Trailer/product/104357/46421) or use cheaper trailer lights on top (like I did). You may also want to bolt in the PVC pipes by drilling through the PVC and braces.



See the link below to what the other Mike did based on what I did to my old Tracker. There are pictures too!




http://www.nitroowners.com/msgboard9e.asp?boardname=msg&view=1066736&replycount=12&archive=1

 

[Jim B]

Wayne, Mike has a Z7 which sits on a 6 bunk trailer, he should not be having the issues some do with the 2 bunk setups. I also own a Z7 and i have never had an issue loading it on the trailer. a lot of the lakes i fish are "no powerload" lakes and i have had no problems cranking it up and keeping it on there straight ragardless of wind or waves. I dont back it in any deeper than normal and i suspect thats the issue Mike is having, its too deep.



That being said i could not agree with Glenn more, dont put something on my boat that i dont need/want.

 

[MIchael O'Neal]

Jim in VA, I am going to install guide on's like you have shown. I was recently at Lake McConaughy in Ogallala, Nebraska and the wind picked up out of nowhere, the waves (water from my thigh to my neck)made it very difficult to load the boat, the boat actually went right over the wheel well, a set of guides would have helped prevent that from hapening.

 

[Scott Savoy]

I have to side with Wayne on this one. 3 months of have my 2012 Tracker Targa....and loving more and more with each trip out!!!!! However, for this boat, the guide rails should come from factory, Galveshield dipped, factory installed. This is a DEEP sided boat. Its a farily big boat for an 18footer. I was suprised how "dinky" the trailor is. I'm more than positive that the trailor will last the life time of the boat (or I would NOT have bought it), so thats no the issue, it just looks like a "dinky" trailor for this big a$$ boat to be sitting on. lol!! It loads great, and I have not had any problems yet,,,,,but, the guide rails should be factory for the Targas !!!

 

[Mike Wagner]

Thanks to all who provided suggestions. I appreciate the feedback.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

I'm with Glenn on this one. If you don't load and unload your boat enough to learn the skill of trailer depth, then guide on's are your answer. Personally, I was in and out of the water so much, it became second nature. Wind, waves, current all have to be considered. I've loaded in all of the above and it does get tricky. Just like anything else, I take it as a challenge. I've been at ramps you wouldn't believe like one that was so narrow, you had to load and unload at an angle AND it was shallow. In Florida, there were ramps that were so steep that your trailer was out of sight by mirror and turning around. Felt like the trailer was going to come off the ball. Loading there was a challenge. High sided tin rigs would benefit the most because they get very unruly at the trailer. But for me in a fiberglass bass rig, I don't need them, don't want to pay for them and if the trailer came with them, I would take them off. I've been to plenty of ramps with no powerloading and they are no problem. Not being snooty, just not the accessory I need.



TOXIC

 

[edward hughes2]

I dont normally power load at all,it tears the heck out of the ramps,I generally leave about two inches of my trailor fenders out of the water and glige my z7 onto the trailor,crank it the rest of the way,I loaded my other boats in similar fashion,but I have noticed on this trailor the bunk supports are light angle iron,and from gliding my z7 onto this trailor the front bunk supports are bending forward since the trailor is over a year old the cheap wood tracker uses for bunks is already rotted and needs replaced while im replacing the wood ill streighten the support brackets,and se if I can figure a way to ad additional support to those shoddy brackets,back on subject,ive never had a need for guide ones,its a matter of learning how deep to back your particular into the water for the optimum ease of loading.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Just a note, powerloading is not a problem if the ramps are constructed for it. The marina I launch at on Lake Ann has extended their ramps every time there is a low water event. Their concrete goes half way across the cove they are in.



TOXIC

 

[Dan J.]

Same at my pond. (Extended ramps.) Another note, if your bunk supports are bending forward (toward the tongue) you are most likely hitting the bunks way too hard. (Seen it too many times to count.) When I need to load easy without high RPM's (power load), I guide the hull in at idle onto the bunks straight and gentle, then when the boat is straight and held to trailer under forward idle load, I'll leave it in gear while I/or partner winch up the nose securely. You'll be surprized at how easy it winches up while at idle in gear.

 

[edward hughes2]

I guess the concrete they use on our boat ramps down here in fl.must be an inferior grade,must be why theFFwc puts signs on all the public ramps,POWER LOADING IS DESTROYING YOUR RAMPS,and if you power load on some private ramps,like at Bobs landing on crooked lake,he will not let you launch there again.