Replacing A 4 Pin Connector On Trailer...

[St Rich]

So... I took the "Fowl Hooker" up to the farm to store for the Winter a couple of weeks ago. When I arrived, I realized that the connector for my lights had popped out of the socket (no telling how long I didn't have signals or brake lights) and dragged for, what I guess by the nub left, many miles. Needless to say, come Spring I will need to replace it.

Do I simply need to just splice in a new one, solder the wires then use heat (shrink) wrap around them? Seems to me that would be the easy solution. Since I have a few months, figured I would check with you fellas to brainstorm other ideas. Any ideas?

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

 

[AirForce]

I love wiring. Yes, just go to wally world and get a new TRAILER 4 pin connector (will come in various lengths from 18inches to 3 ft long). I wouldn't bother with solder myself. Myself, I'd use heat shrink butt connectors and crimp it BUT if you feel comfortable soldering, that's up to you. To me, soldering anything thats prone to vibration is just asking for trouble down the road. If it didn't flex/vibrate I'd say go for it. Never ever solder anything in boat wiring. That'll be the first then that rusts.

Here's ya a wiring diagram color code for trailer wiring typical 4 pin configuration. Now if you have 2 brown wires, 2 green and 2 yellow, don't sweat it, just combine them to the one wire, its very possible you'll have 2 browns (it will branch off usually at the Y if not). Do NOT use those damn cheap trailer taps or you're asking for trouble. Make really sure your WHITE ground wire IS grounded well back of the receiver hitch onto the frame itself (and not the receiver hitch portion). Personally I would extend the ground from that point to all light points ground, for double grounding, so if rust affects one point, it doesn't take out all the lights at once or a big portion thereof.

 

[AirForce]

Oh, another thing, pay close attention to the TYPE of 4 pin connector you have on the vehicle side - reason is if your vehicle side has the rounded sides (not squared) you'll find new trailer side connectors could be the typical rounded sides OR square sides (with square ground plug rubber instead of round). Below is a square one

and below is a more typical round one (or a drawing of one)

 

[St Rich]

Great detail here, Airforce. I really appreciate the insight. When you say, "Do NOT use those damn cheap trailer taps or you're asking for trouble", are you talking about the one's you buy at the autoparts store? Is there a better place to pick them up?

Thanks again for your prompt advice. Have a Merry Christmas!

 

[AirForce]

Talking about these cheap things http://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--t...MSN-_-Shopping PLAs-_-9386194&device={Device}

 

[AirForce]

You should be able to get a trailer end connector at most any place, just be conscious of the square or round types and get the one that matches your vehicle side connector. Walmart, any box type store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) and any marine store (from cheaper to more expensive)

 

[cq]

I wouldn't bother with solder myself. Myself, I'd use heat shrink butt connectors and crimp it BUT if you feel comfortable soldering, that's up to you.

I prefer to solder and then good heat shrink, but if I cannot get into solder (sometimes I have to use a flame when away from 115v outlet) then crimp connectors. I pack the ends with electrical grease and then heat shrink. But I have had lots of training and experience in using gas to connect various pieces i.e. stainless steel to brass, copper to iron and etc.

 

[David Romano]

Trailer lights issue turned out to be a bad ground connection on my Wangler. Tech told me Wranglers are know for loose wires due to off road stuff.

First time on the water last week. Outboard ran well. Trolling motor acts dead. No power to fish finder.

What can cause a 2 stroke oil injected Mercury to beep beep beep when the oil level is NOT low? When returning to the boat ramp after a WOT run the beeper started sounding off. Was not the over heat solid tone, an oil level low, beep beep beep.

 

[AirForce]

What can cause a 2 stroke oil injected Mercury to beep beep beep when the oil level is NOT low? When returning to the boat ramp after a WOT run the beeper started sounding off. Was not the over heat solid tone, an oil level low, beep beep beep.

http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-...rning-horn-went-beep-beep-beep-beep-beep.html

 

[olefisherman]

happened to me . it was corroded connector pins in a round multi prong connector under the oil tank . 40 min each way, fixed in ten min

 

[firedog978]

As to your wiring the new connector, I like to use liquid tape. It's a gluey liquid with a brush built into the cap. Brush it on and it seals beautifully. I've used this for years and love it. Also, it's very inexpensive and lasts typically a long time.