I'll try to keep this short even though it's been bouncing around in my mind for a year or so. I wasn't sure if this fit better on electronics or motor / props so I'm sorry if I didn't post in the best spot. I have a Tracker PT 175 and installed a 24V TM years ago. I relocated the crank battery to the front compartment and ran electronics, lighting and crank from there. This obviously involved lengthening crank and associated wires. I believe I used 12ga wire. Related or not, I developed a rectifier issue among other ignition related issues. With the help of CDI, I tested components and got new stuff that worked. Part of that project was moving the crank battery back back with the two TM batteries. I liked the front location for the crank battery and want to move it back so all batteries are accessible. The question is, does anyone think relocating the crank battery caused the charging / ignition issues? If so, was it a wire gauge issue? To lengthen the start and other wires, what gauge should I use given the additional length? Or is it just a bad idea regardless to mess with this in general? Thanks!
Crank Battery Relocation And Wire Size Required
- Thread starter AJ Ettaro
- Start date
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cq
Well-Known Member
Search dc electrical 101 and view http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm.
You could have had enough voltage drop to overheat the rectifier.
If you run the starter for long lengths of time you can cause the rectifier to overheat and short out.
My in/out-laws asked me to look at their outboard, as it turned out they overheated the rectifier, it shorted, caused an excessive load on the starter solenoid, shorted it out and destroyed the starter motor just because they forgot to open a fuel vent.
Also search outboard rectifier trouble shooting.
Without seeing what you have all I can do is try to point you in the right direction.
You could have had enough voltage drop to overheat the rectifier.
If you run the starter for long lengths of time you can cause the rectifier to overheat and short out.
My in/out-laws asked me to look at their outboard, as it turned out they overheated the rectifier, it shorted, caused an excessive load on the starter solenoid, shorted it out and destroyed the starter motor just because they forgot to open a fuel vent.
Also search outboard rectifier trouble shooting.
Without seeing what you have all I can do is try to point you in the right direction.
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Duane Mauzy
Well-Known Member
How far is the battery from the motor? I think some of your problems is the wire size and type. For a starting battery cable I would not go much smaller that size 8 and find someplace that sells a cable that has a high strand count use for DC. This may not resolve all the problems. just remember you are running power from a longer distance and you are dumping a lot of power to start the motor. I would probably opt for 6 gauge with a high strand count to be certain I am getting enough power to the motor.
Duane Mauzy
Well-Known Member
Look up www.delcity.net or google 6ga battery cable. Do both positive and negative when you do this. It's about 1.50 a foot.
wesgillock
Active Member
use a heavy number 4 or 2 gauge welding leads for your wire and run them from your battery back to the original battery spot and tie into battery wire with kernies, ( A wire connection device available from any electrical supply house ) of the correct size and coat with a liquid wire anti -corrosion coating. then seal with liquid tape then wrap with rubber tape to seal out all moisture. Why you moving battery? You do know that adding battery to front will kill your top end speed. I balanced mine across rear of boat. Mostly they are set to port side to level boat with me in it.
Kirby Wilson
Well-Known Member
No. 4 welding lead is what I have used in the past for trolling motor wire it will work fine. No. 12 is way ro small of wire to run the motor on. I would say number 6 wire at the minimum. Welding wire leads would be ease to work with. Use a copper for all of your connections.
Thanks everyone for the replies and comments. The welding wire would be great to work with and easy to come by (maybe not pay for though). Why am I toying with moving the battery? I have a crazy setup on this boat. We have HP restrictions on lakes in my area so I run a 25 Merc on this boat. Being the tx175, 24v TM w/batteries, entirely too much tackle and my rather full figure, pale and performance is hardly an option. Relocating a group 24 start battery helps to distribute a little weight forward so the two group 31s in the back don't suck the transom underwater when taking off. My top speed and wot rpm actually increased having it in the front compartment but,like I said earlier, I thought I caused the electrical issues with the engine when I moved it so I moved it back.
olefisherman
Active Member
+ on the wire size . i would run the wires in side plastic conduit and use battery disconnect !!!
got a short .wiring burnt and melted 16 ft . don't know why the boat didn't burn .
got a short .wiring burnt and melted 16 ft . don't know why the boat didn't burn .
