Cleaning/Restoring the Dash

[Rick Allen]

I was cleaning my Nitro last night, that I had just recently bought and I noticed that the dash was kinda "Caulky" just from the outdoors, but it's not real bad. What can I use to clean/restore it? Was going to use "Armor All" but I wasn't sure. Also what's good for the seats?

Thanks

Rick

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

303 Protectant (seats), Mothers Back to Black or Bass Boat Saver for dash and unless they have really changed the formula, ARMOUR ALL is the LAST thing I would put on anything I owned. Kinda like those who put Pledge furniture polish on their boat!!

 

[Ralph Hayden]

I just finished servicing 8 Penn 320 GTi level winds with new drags and dogs. I broke the reels down completely and threw the brass parts in a vibrating tumbler that shooters use to clean their brass for re-loading. The graphite frames were beaten up pretty good and being a perfectionist, I tried everything I could think of to clean them up. My brother in law suggested I try that stuff advertised on TV called Wipe New. He sai his boss used it on his car and made it look new. The only place you can buy the stuff is on line so I ordered a bottle and I have to admit, the stuff is incredible. IIRC, I paid about $40.00 for a 3 oz bottle but a little goes a long way. They advertise that one application should last two years and it's not to be used on paint but you'll be amazed at what it will do for your dashboard.

 

[Ralph Hayden]

Before Wipe New

After Wipe New

 

[Ralph Hayden]

Well, that didn't work! Maybe this will.
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/Rocco_2006/

 

[fatrap]

As long as cleaning dashes and such came up I will offer some Quick tips on detailing your boat. If your serious. I'd go to the store that sells auto detailing supplies that to the auto detailing business and get vinyl and leather restore for my seats. There is a plastic restore that they use on dash items it's called speedy shin or something of that nature. It actually replaces the chemicals that leach out and oxidizes through the exposure to the sun's rays. When I went through the detail class prior to teaching auto detailing at the school where I taught almost everyone there said to avoid Armoral. The professional grade products last longer that the quick acting catchy name sprays. But they are more TOT(time on target)than spray and wipe. I've used them for years on my boats and autos and the difference is night and day. One thing also when waxing your boat the previous wax needs to be removed(tar and wax remover) before applying new wax or your just waxing over old wax and those sparkles will fade. Fiberglass exposed to the elements almost requires a good going over annually. Same for your seats and upholstry they need a good cleaner like 409 and a very soft bristled brush. Cotton diaper material is the best cloth for removing dirty and oxidized materials cotton towels second. Another word of caution. If you don't know how to use a high speed buffer DON'T. It will melt plastic trim in a second. Also avoid at all cost getting any of this @#it in your live/baitwell. You would not even believe what my students have restored with the right products. We did a old pink Glastron that turned out to be bright wine colored. A few students went on to start their own business. commercial ended

fatrap

 

[mark barton]

toxic......so you do not like bass boat saver???

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Mark....Nooooooooo, I don't like Armour All products. They single handedly (in the past) were the sole reason for zillions of cracking dashes in cars. I :wub: bass boat saver. Has a lot of uses. I'll let Gunny explain if he ever gets on here. I used it for the glass only but it will work on the seats, graph screens and will get fish blood out of the carpet as well...so I am told. I know of some who even use it on their vehicles as a quick detailer. Great product.

 

[Bill McElroy]

Tox,...edit your 1st post.....it doesn't make any sense......you left out "Armor-All" I think..